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Little Desert Permaculture

July 25, 2015 No Comments

A family’s passion to bring permaculture to the harshest of Victorian landscapes.
A guest post by Dieter and Ilse from the Little Desert.

On the edge of the Wimmera region of Western Victoria in the heart of wheat and sheep country a family is going against the status quo to create a permaculture Eden.

Ilse and I originally had a laugh over email about how my list of plants that can survive utter neglect in Melbourne wouldn’t have a fighting chance where she lives on the edge of the Little Desert National Park. In her words the only survivors without water in their “hot, sunny, parch summers and frosty winters” would be “wormwood, maybe dandelion and nettle if we have a little rain!”. Now that would make a tasty salad!! Ha!

So I invited her to write a guest post about the unique challenges she faces in her extreme climate and how she has overcome them. I was excited to find out more and I knew you would be too. Her son Dieter wrote the following post and I hope his beautiful account of their journey inspires you all as much as it did me. We’re not alone in our struggles against man and bug and the hard work pays off! We look forward to a sequel in a few months!

Permaculture in practice, practice, practice…
And, patience.
Our garden on it’s way to eden is in a hot, dry, but also frosty small town surrounded by conventional grain growing farmers, where starting a permaculture garden can definitely be demanding. Especially when there’s not too many others who share the same inspiration and can lend a hand in sharing their ‘what works’ and ‘what dries up before you can plant em’ tips and tricks. So without too much experience, much of what we do is trial and error, with more often sometimes error in the beginning phases of setting things up.

In a way, however, this is something you can enjoy. Kind of like deriving a sense of importance because you’re about the only ones who are making an effort in this line of work (apart from a few local inspirations), whilst everyone else around you is carelessly spraying, consuming, or not having the slightest interest in the stuff around them which they would really actually LOVE if they even perhaps knew it was there.

Sometimes, it is a bit disheartening. When you see greens of greens of gardens in other climates with fruit trees, and even just weeds would be kind of good, perhaps, if they grew. Winter is our wet season, but summer can be long, hot and dry without much going on unless you’ve got some good irrigation systems, or established trees.

But, with much excitement, some things do work.

This first one is the vegie patch under shade cloth, including a few wicking beds. Goji berry growing on the south end, beans on the far end (north) Frames up for cucumbers to climb to save space. Not enough morning sun in this patch though, as our double storey dwelling over shadows it. I am thinking of putting in more fruit trees and shifting the vegie patch out the back further under shade cloth that allows the morning sun and covers north and west. Even though that would be like in zone 2. Not much choice though.

Arrowroot loving the heat, but growing in a wicking bed. Have just made another round wicking bed on the hot north side of the garden and are transferring the arrowroot over there to act as a wind break.

Desperately trying to get grapes growing everywhere for summer shade.

Have lost quite a few thyme plants despite that they are meant to like the heat. So this time the thyme went in a bucket of water!

And our little success story. Our "hugel nests" of fruit tree pruning (thanks to locals not knowing what to do with them) left over after the hugel bed had been topped up with them, and grass clippings. The idea of was to keep the summer blazing sun off around the roots of the trees, the side effect was not curly leaf that year :) — And our little success story. Our “hugel nests” of fruit tree pruning (thanks to locals not knowing what to do with them) left over after the hugel bed had been topped up with them, and grass clippings. The idea of was to keep the summer blazing sun off around the roots of the trees, the side effect was not curly leaf that year 🙂

french-millet-buckwheat-mallow2 — This second one is french millet growing, with a bit of buckwheat, rocket and the forever opportunistic mallow. I’d sown the french millet as a green manure. It was watered to get it started but then no more and was lush green all through summer. The rocket and the mallow had a sprinkler over it on a timer, so some may have sprayed over at times. However, note the amaranth struggling behind the millet. Will be guerilla gardening some of our millet seed on the roadsides next summer…. maybe some farmers may take note and use it as a green manure instead of spraying weeds out in summer.

The first thing that works is definitely taking the right mindset. It seems that in permaculture many people take things very seriously. Like the world is going to fall apart if we don’t work day and night trying to save it. Save what exactly is probably the largest misunderstanding, because all things that need to be saved have a mind of their own, and DO have the ability to contribute to their own salvation, or destruction. So not getting too tied up with overt responsibilities in a demanding environment is probably a good mindset to have, and especially if you have other needs and responsibilities.

Our garden is a part time effort, and in a way, it makes it easier to see what works, and what doesn’t. If something gets neglected, and it survives, it stands out pretty clear. A few good things like that amongst a few likeminded people and you already have the potential to create some permanent sustainable systems.

Wicking beds work great… when they have water. A local showed us his wicking beds on an automatic irrigation system. They looked fantastic!
Hugelbeds…. still in experimentation but they certainly do hold moisture even at the end of the long hot summer, and mulch, mulch, mulch obviously makes such a difference to trees, and the soil.

Setting up your garden to receive the right amount of light is important too. Even though our climate is somewhat semi arid, we don’t want too much shade but even some small exposure to our hot sun can fry things up. We have a very hot west sun and some dry hot winds, but the right plant in the right spot with adequate water will do wonderful.

We have found that growing trees from seed do very well. We have some peaches that come up here and there and they go full bore for their first year without hardly any irrigation. The hotter it gets the more arrowroot seems to grow, and the winter is a great time for getting things started, indoors.

Our irrigation system made a huge difference to our trees, which would be too demanding on us otherwise.

And aquaponics works well too in full sun.

Probably the most interesting thing about our place is that our efforts, and those of a few, do become noticed, and gradually work their way into the minds of locals. To see a system which is so ‘advanced’, that is the current way of life that most people around here live, to make some subtle changes, to turn a few heads and pause for a moment. That really is something.

Of course it would be easy to inspire the ones who are on the edge of their seats already, but those who lay in the gutters wondering how they arrived in their misery, it is something special to watch them see the light, even if it only comes from the corner of their eye.

I know a man who is also doing some great things with his family in our area in permaculture. He has poly tunnels and aquaponics which both apparently work well. So there is lots of sun, and lots of opportunity for things to grow here. There are watercourses and swamps not too far from our area which shows excellent opportunity.

But apart from all that, working in the garden in peace, away from the busyness of the world can feel like a small reach from Heaven, sometimes.

Digging deep, 1 meter deep for our sunken hugel bed. Didn't want to go high in this hot climate. Local pine trees that had been felled at the footy oval, saved from being burnt by the council and put to better use! ( they still burnt a heap). — Digging deep, 1 meter deep for our sunken hugel bed. Didn’t want to go high in this hot climate. Local pine trees that had been felled at the footy oval, saved from being burnt by the council and put to better use! ( they still burnt a heap).

Followed by local horse poo and duck poo ( duck farms around here)

and more grass. Notice the green grass behind, this is winter here.

Finally the hugelbed with sleepers around its edge and flattened on top. The soil is very sandy here, water runs of and doesn't soak in too well. Everything in it struggled this year once the summer really hit, just tried to get it covered a bit with vines. (sweet potato and mung beans) Next summer it will be shade clothed and hopefully the blueberries now planted will kick off :) — Finally the hugelbed with sleepers around its edge and flattened on top. The soil is very sandy here, water runs of and doesn’t soak in too well. Everything in it struggled this year once the summer really hit, just tried to get it covered a bit with vines. (sweet potato and mung beans) Next summer it will be shade clothed and hopefully the blueberries now planted will kick off 🙂

Looking north west towards the back of our yard. Another bit of shade cloth for shade refuge. Behind the rusty water tank is our happy little fig tree on the edge of the hugel bed. To the right a young mulberry with a pile of grass at its feet, compliments of the local cemetery. Waiting for the junk to leave the old timber shed to convert it into a glasshouse hopefully. In the background the local reserve and dry grass vacant land next door, where we have planted a few nectarine and peach trees from seed which are growing, albeit slowly, with very little water.

Garden

community rehabilitation garden – stage 1

November 2, 2014 5 Comments

Hidden away, just off busy Mount Alexander Road there is a little community with a patch of lawn that dreamed of being something more.

After months of life-affirming moments: fly-fishing with a reconstructive surgeon in Oregon, building Earthships in New Mexico, green woodworking in the Sussex forest, wild camping in Napoleon’s pine forests; it was hard to find inspiration touching down into the old rhythm. After weeks of work, eat, sleep, finally a project brought me out of my stupor and gave colour, energy and meaning back into my world. I hope it touches others as deeply.

The residents of Norfolk Terrace are coping with long-term serious mental illness and disability and we were asked to design a permaculture garden to engage them in growing their own fresh food. We hope as well as turning a bland patch of grass into an edible garden, this becomes a place to building connections and community.

6am awaking with a start to a downpour, 3 years to the day since our own Permablitz was a near wash out, who says Melbourne weather is unpredictable? 8:30 ticked over and the rain had eased so…what the heck, let’s just go for it, if only a hand full of people show for two hours it would still accomplish more than us slogging to complete it by ourselves (and more importantly the sausages and vegetarian delights were already prepared and waiting)!

The residents hadn’t slept well, what with the hot night and the storm, they might not be roused to show up, Greg, a staff member, informed us with an apologetic grimace. We’d heard it before, don’t expect too much, wandering enthusiasm, and the like, but in my honest heart a Permablitz without the residents would be disappointing. Oh well, our volunteers (those undeterred by rain) were pouring in and there was a promising crevasse in the clouds, we threw ourselves into the business of making a permaculture paradise!

It only took a few minutes for Tony to prove him wrong, rocking up to observe, joke and water when required despite his tricky heart. Then another shy smiling resident came to tuck our pile of turf into bed, our main man when it came to covering grass with hessian to stop it sprouting. Tony pointed out it looked like the grave of someone with a loooong body, a boa constrictor a volunteer suggested.

levelling-ground-timber-garden-bed

norfolk-terrace-watering-sheetmulch-no-dig-garden

To the delight of the workers the rain restrained itself to only spitting and that only after we had worked in warm sun long enough to need cooling off. Smiles were wide and laughter was easy, everyone was excited to construct raised garden wicking beds, despite having to do some tricky levelling off the ground beforehand. Elsewhere the brick laying gang finished their pretty angled edging of the no-dig gardens and were rewarded with a little planting. Although unplanned the CERES donations of punnets and punnets of corn and white cucumbers meant we could try out the three sisters’ method of planting: hungry/thirsty corn, with trailing vines to keep the soil moist and beans to climb up the stalks and fix nitrogen into the soil.

Lunch was ready just in time as hard working bellies began to growl. Sausages went down a treat with the omnivores who were also pleasantly suprised by the vegetarian fare of beetroot burgers and delicious quinoa salad with grilled mushrooms. The work had been going along well so volunteers, residents and staff relaxed for a chat while everything digested.

After the last crumbs were brushed from beards and raincoats Dylan ran a wicking bed workshop, which I will paraphrase in a future post. Sand and compost went in and then those who had been pushing wheelbarrows for most of the day had a chance to finish it off with some onions and eggplant seedlings.

The sun started to halo our workers as the afternoon wore on just as the finishing touches were going into the second brick no-dig garden. It was planted with adwarf manderine, buddha’s fingers, tea plant, maqui berry and artichokes which would form an edible evergreen hedge to the south of the raised vegetable gardens. As the sand was levelled in the second wicking bed it struck 5pm and Dylan could only usher everyone off by promising a second Permabee to finish off the two other wicking beds this Tuesday. Now if having to bribe your volunteers with another day of labouring isn’t a sign of a happy and successful Blitz, I don’t know what is! Thanks to everyone who came and a special thank you to Norfolk Terrace and the Flemington Neigbourhood Learning Centre for making this happen.

If anyone is interested in attenting the Permabee on Tuesday 4th November contact us at info@thedesertecho.com and to be involved as a volunteer at the Norfolk garden please contact pip@fsnlc.net 9376 9088, we will be running workshops for residents every Friday morning and welcome volunteers to help out.

P.S. You might like to our Community Food Forest Permablitz post

enjoying-permablitz-vegetarian-lunch

norfolk-terrace-resident-shovelling-sand

beetroot-tofu-burger-quinoa-salad

wheelbarrow-moving-compost-norfolk-terrace-flemington-permablitz

Garden

PLANTING OUT TOMATOES

August 1, 2013 7 Comments

transplanting solanaceae and other warm weather crops
growing tomatoes in a temperate climate

garden-planting-out-plan-solanaceae-companions

After months of waiting, it’s finally here, that tiny window where you can plant out your hot weather crops! Blink and it’s gone, a month before it was too cool and a month later too hot, without enough time for the fruit to mature before autumns chill prevents fruit ripening. In Melbourne this magical month is November, when the minimum temperature doesn’t dip below 10C, but the rain has not yet dried up and those scorching 30C plus days are few and far between. In the Northern Hemisphere this would be May.

Spring’s warm weather companions have been flourishing, beans twisting around stakes and lettuces feathering over the earth to protect your delicate young seedlings from the worst of sun and wind. The rest of your hot weather lovers such as basil can go in now with your tomatoes, capsicums, chillis and eggplants. There was room for a cucumber too in the corner of my garden bed, to twirl up and over an arbour.

A month of work paves the way for two months of rest

After you slog this month out you will have earned that beach vacation and the garden should be fairly self sufficient. Remember don’t spoil your plants and they won’t throw a tantrum when you’re not there.

►
My garden bed plan for the warmer months. Tomatoes in the centre of each triangle, supported by string thread around stakes. Lettuces suceeded by basil, marigolds, amaranth
Stage 1: September – November
Stage 2: December – March

Grow plants densely in hot weather to protect them form sunburn, otherwise put up a shadecloth.

plastic-bottle-greenhouse-tomato-seedling-propagation

Tips for planting out tomatoes

In warmer months plant in the evening to allow transplants to recover overnight. The opposite is true in cold weather, where the plants need the warm day to prepare for the cold night, to reduce the likelihood of rot.

Tomatoes are nutrient hungry, but if your soil is too rich they will produce a lot of leaves an no fruit. Dig a hole twice as deep as your seedling’s pot and place poultry manure in the bottom, cover this with soil and plant seedling on top. The plant will grow deeps roots, and reach the manure when it need the extra boost, when covered in fruit.

Avoid overhead watering as this can contribute to sun spot and fungal spores can be splashed onto foliage from other plants.

Plant hot weather crops when the minimum temperature is consistently over 10C

Plant tomato seedlings deeper than they were in their pot so the roots are nice and deep to protect them from drying out. Like cucurbits and some herbs, tomatoes form roots on their stems when in contact with soil.

There is no need to prune. Studies have shown yield is actually reduced when plants are pruned.Wounds on plants increase their risk of disease. If you need to cut them, use secateurs disinfected with mentholated spirits.

Plants can get stressed because they don’t get enough moisture. Water your seedling thoroughly an hour before transplanting and for added benefit use seaweed tea. This helps soil cling to the roots and minimises shock. If it is really dry fill the hole with water and wait for it to drain into the soil before planting.

Mulch thickly around plant to keep soil damp.

watercolour-plastic-bottle-greenhouse-tomato-roots

Tomatoes have delicate stems, be careful when handling not to bruise of bend them. The same goes for the roots, be gentle!

mychorrizal-fungi-roots-seedling-propagation

Add mycorrhiza fungi to the roots of the seedling before transplant. Whilst natural ecosystem such as the forest floor have millions of fungi in the soil, garden beds often require the addition of beneficial fungi to act as agents for nutrient exchange, making nutrients otherwise locked up available.

transplant-tomato-polywicking-bed-chamomile-tea

Water deeply to saturate the soil and make sure it stays moist for the first few days after transplant. Try a chamomile herb tea After that water only once a week, but very deeply. This encourages deep roots, watering too often, and too shallowly causes roots to form near the surface and these are vulnerable to drying out on a hot day. Plants watered too become soft and delicate.

Garden

double-decker poly wicking bed.

May 7, 2013 4 Comments

tomato experiment preparation

recycle-reuse-rubbish-plastic-bottles-polystyrene-boxes

Whenever I passed the Queen Victoria Market there was always a mound of polystyrene broccoli boxes so impressively high that it reassembled a hot weather igloo palace. It was kind of sickening and ever the innovator the powers that be came up with a solution to this spectacle pointless waste – hide them out the back and crush them out of sight and out of mind.

I could only reduce those insatiable mountains of foam by 20 boxes, but if you feel inspired to make a double-decker wicking bed too too dear reader, perhaps we can get something started! I have a concrete driveway beginning to be filled with poly wicking beds for my tomato experiment.

Tomorrow we’ll work our way up to lofty heights of Everest, today let’s start local!

WHY A WICKING BED?

On those exhaustingly hot weeks you just don’t want to find yourself hose in hand every night after a long day in the office with mosquitoes buzzing around your ankles.

Wicking beds have a water reservoir at the bottom so you have to water less often – about every two weeks. The water is down deep so it encourages deep roots, so stronger plants, more resilient to a bit of sunburn. They offer a more constant water source too, so in theory it should be perfect for things like tomatoes that split and carry on if their water supply is erratic.

WHY POLY BOXES?

There is so much embodied energy and money that goes into making a regular wicking bed, what with the pond liner, the brand new poly pipe, agi pipe, shadecloth, etc, it doesn’t seem the right fit for the home garden. A poly wicking bed however is entirely made of unwanted materials, so you can feel smug while you make it! Ha!

WHY DOUBLE-DECKER?

I’ve seen single poly wicking beds before, but I wanted to make them for deep rooted plants like tomatoes, so why not simply make them stackable?

INGREDIENTS & METHOD:

1LEVEL GROUND – a level surface allows water to be evenly distributed. Concrete driveways and paved areas often have a slight fall to them which could lead to water pooling down one end. Cans and pots of varying height can be used to elevate the boxes off the ground and create a more level base. A builder’s level is accurate but unnecessary, you can simply fill the container with a little water and see if evenly covers the bottom or pools at one end.

2SEALED CONTAINER – no plastic pond liner or staple guns required, a broccoli box has no holes and is well insulated against temperature extremes. I simply snap the top lip off and place it on the can/pot base.

3WATER DISTRIBUTION – another chance to raid the recycle bin. 7x600mL bottles with their bottoms cut off instead of the usual PVC and agi pipes. Wide mouthed ones are best because a standard hose can fit in the top, but otherwise just cut the tops off. On such a small scale, the gaps between the three bottles laid on the bottom will be enough to ensure even water throughout the reservoir. The remaining four stacked will allow you to deliver water right to the bottom of the wicking bed.

4WATER RESERVOIR – no more than 30cm deep to avoid stagnant water. Can be filled with scoria, gravel, broken terracotta pots…anything that allows big pockets of water between and can become saturated to encourage the wicking/capillary action up into the soil above. Nothing too fine as it will clog the plastic bottles. Fill with water to level out the scoria, then use a sharp stick to make 1 or 2 holes at the opposite end to the filling end. These act as overflows to prevent flooding when it rains.

5SOIL SEPARATION – something to prevent the soil from getting into the resevoir, but that allows water to wick through. Hessian or old sheets can be used, they will eventually need to be replaced, but in such a small wicking bed that’s no big deal. Use shadecloth if you are looking for something more permanent. Fold the hessian up the edges of the bed so no dirt gets through and so it is easy to remove should you want to take the wicking bed apart.

6NUTRIENT STORE* – high nitrogen poultry manure mixed with high carbon straw or dried leaves will make a most delightful reward for plants that grows nice deep roots. Then fill this to the brim with homemade potting mix.

72ND STOREY – cut the bottom out of the second broccoli box leaving a lip for it to sit on the one below. Fun fact: in a moment of despondency when my scissors broke in two I found that a half scissor works a treat at sawing through polystyrene, don’t throw them away!

8PLANT POCKET/SUPPORTS – As I have mentioned before it is best to prepare any garden bed at least 2 week to a month before you plant out plants that hate transplant to avoid soil settling crushing delicate roots . That is why I made a cardboard mould the size of my plastic bottle greenhouse so I can fill the wicking bed with soil and get the companion plants established before the tomatoes are ready to plant out. It is then as simple as pulling out the mould and slipping the tomato in the hole. Add stakes/supports now to avoid disturbing roots later.

8POTTING MIX – fill in the gaps with potting mix, plant some companions plants and mulch thickly. Voila, now it’s ready to plant out your tomatoes when the temperature reaches a consistent 10C+.

TOMATO FACTS
Although tomatoes love nutrient rich soil do not spoil your tomatoes by over fertilising the soil with high nitrogen manures! They will become brattish – soft and lazy, shallow rooted plants that appear* green and lush but require constant watering and attention susceptible to disease with thin skinned tomatoes prone to rot.
Additional nutrients should be delivered in the form of compost/seaweed teas ONLY once a plant has already started fruiting to extend cropping and overall yield. An even better idea is to bury poultry manure out of reach 20-30cm nearby or under your plants so their roots will access it only when they have grown deep and their fruit is ripening.

Little Desert Permaculture

A family’s passion to bring permaculture to the harshest of Victorian landscapes. A guest post by Dieter and Ilse from the Little Desert.

community rehabilitation garden – stage 1

Hidden away, just off busy Mount Alexander Road there is a little community with a patch of lawn that dreamed of being something more.

PLANTING OUT TOMATOES

A month of work paves the way for two months of rest

Tips for planting out tomatoes

double-decker poly wicking bed.

tomato experiment preparation

Tomorrow we’ll work our way up to lofty heights of Everest, today let’s start local!

WHY A WICKING BED?

WHY POLY BOXES?

WHY DOUBLE-DECKER?

INGREDIENTS & METHOD:

A family’s passion to bring permaculture to the harshest of Victorian landscapes.
A guest post by Dieter and Ilse from the Little Desert.