TOMATO CUTTINGS

easy guide to propagate tomatoes when it is too late to sow


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A tomato plant wasn’t born to stand to attention on a tomato stake, pruned within an inch of it’s life to a singledelicate stem. It’s a rambler, and like pumpkins and herbs like thyme all it needs is to touch its stem to the earth for it to sprout roots. This delightful trick can be used to your advantage when it gets too late for any tomatoes you sow to mature in time to bear any significant fruit.

A tomato cutting will bear fruit in a matter of weeks after the cutting sprouts roots.

So I plant all my tomato seeds in True Spring (Southern Hemisphere: September-October, Northern: March-April), plant them out in the beginning of High Summer (Southern: November, Northern: May). Then once these grow multiple stems about 20-30cm long I take cuttings to make extra plants from High Summer -Deep Summer (Southern: December-Mid March).

And here’s the best part! Tomato cuttings don’t actually need to be cut off the parent plant until they have grown roots! “What?!?” you say, here’s how:

ingredients

plastic juice/soft drink bottle
knife
secateurs & methylated spirits for disinfecting
hessian/cloth
scissors
electrical tape
chock


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step 1

Cut base and top off the bottle. As bottles are wider at the bottom than the top, the top should be cut off at the point where it is slightly smaller than the base.

step 2

Cut hole in base for tomato stem to pass through.


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step 3

Chose a 20-30cm long stem and after disinfecting your secateurs with metho cut off all but 2-3 top leaf stems. Also remove any flowers so the tomato puts all its energy into producing roots. 


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step 4

Cut a piece of hessian to fit in the bottle base. Snip a cross in the centre for the tomato stem to be threaded through. You do not need to cut the stem from the parent tomato plant! Take the rest of the bottle and place the top end in the base.


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step 5

Tape the base to the bottle with electrical tape.

step 6

Fill bottle with seed raising mixture being careful not tpo bruise or snap the tomato stem.


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step 7

Chock up on a piece of wood. A brick and timber board work well. Label with name and date.


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step 7

Water with diluted chamomile tea.


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the next few weeks

step 9

Keep your tomato “cutting” moist for the next few weeks, it’s very important that it doesn’t dry out.

Roots should start forming in the first week, but there is no need to cut in until you are ready to plant it in its new home. It should start developing new leaves as well.

step 10

By this stage you should clearly see a mass of roots through the plastic bottle. Cut the tomato cutting from its parent below the bottle, remove the bottle base cut the bottle along the side to slip it out before planting. A cut bottle can be reused by electrical taping the side back together.

why are bottle tomato cutting best?

Tomatoes are very prone to transplant stress. With an established root system before being snipped from itsparent your cuttings are more likely to survive.
It’s a great way to “clone” any particularly resilient, tasty tomatoes you have in your garden and extend its harvest beyond the life of its parent.
They transport well in their bottle pots.
As your cutting is already around 15cm tall out of the bottle your plant will grow tomatoes much sooner than a cutting taken the traditional way (only around 6cm) or a seedling grown from seed.
A great way of re-using plastic bottles that would otherwise go in the recycling bin. A clear bottle means you can see the roots growing.

step 8

Wrap the bottles in hessian to protect the growing roots from the sun and retain moisture.


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HOMEMADE NEWSPAPER POT MAKER

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high summer preparation
free, easy mulching solutions for the busy gardener to replenish nutrients in their soil and protect their plants form the hot weather.


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Recently I was asked by MINTI to do a workshop for their Harvest Festival on making newspaper pots for seedling propagation. It was obvious that not everyone has a lovely newspaper pot maker like myself, so I decided to make one. And guess what? It worked way better than the bought one!

Give rubbish new life! Learn how to make an eco pot!

WHEN TO USE MILK CARTONS

Newspaper pots aren’t good for all plants. They disintegrate very fast so not for plants that need a lot of time in the nursery. They also tend to collapse when you make them too big so not for larger plants like pumpkins, zucchini and eggplants. For those guys you might as well use a nice sturdy milk carton pot.

WHEN TO USE NEWSPAPER POTS

But that ability to disintegrate is why they are so great for the fast growing, quick to transplant seedlings. There is virtually no transplant stress and unlike with the milk carton it will completely disintegrate into the soil.
Try: lettuce, spinach, tatsoi, mustard, dandelion, amaranth, silverbeet, coriander, mizuna

If it fruits then it’s bigger and prefers hot weather, if it leafs then it’s faster and newspaper’s the answer.

INGREDIENTS:

1 glass jar around 6cm diameter and 12cm+ high
3 jar lids 6cm, 5cm and 3.5cm so they fit inside one another
Blu-tack or glass/metal glue
Electrical tape
Newspaper
Scissors


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POT MAKER METHOD:

 
1Blu-tack the smallest lid inside the biggest. This should leave a groove big enough for the middle lid to fit into loosely.

2Tape these to the bottom of the jar with the bottom facing out.

NEWSPAPER POTS METHOD:

 
3Take your sheet of newspaper. I find a double thickness 42x20cm rectangle to be optimal. That is a broadsheet folded in half and cut into thirds along the long edge, or two tabloid pages cut into thirds. I like to fold over the top edge to strengthen it.

4Roll the paper around the jar with 6cm extending over the bottom. Fold this into the centre.

5Place the remaining jar lid on a stable surface bottom facing up. Then seal your pot by placing the jar on top and pressing down firmly. It’s that simple! No need to pay $20!

I make my pots 6cm because that is the size hole my bulb planter makes, I just dig a hole, lift out the soil and drop the pot in, so easy!

My pots end up being around 6cm diameter x 12cm high and can hold up 2 months before needing to be planted.


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And then in an instant the rain is turned off at the mains and it just gets hotter and hotter, it’s High Summer. It’s dry and water is scarce, the snails and slugs of spring fade away to be replaced by the dreaded mosquito – good for the garden, bad for the gardener! Mulching your garden to prevent moisture lost is imperative!

You would have planted out all the “all season” plants like lettuce and silverbeet in True Spring under cloches to keep them safe from snails, but now it’s time to plant out the warm weather crops. Here is Melbourne November doesn’t dip below 10C so it’s ideal for tomatoes.

Get as much as you can planted out now, it will be a frenzy, but worth it when your plants have grown large and lush enough to look after themselves when it gets really hot. In late December you want to be enjoying an ice cream on the beach, not worrying about your entire crop turning to ash.

HARDENING OFF

But just look at those little seedlings in your nursery, they’re spoilt aren’t they! Soft and delicate little things, they won’t be able to hack it in the real world, just one stiff breeze will send them crying to the ground!

Tough love time – they need to be hardened up!

But in all seriousness transplanting can be very traumatic for our delicate seedlings if not done right. The shock can stunt growth or cause your plant to bolt to seed prematurely. If you are really unlucky it will just flop over and die. A sudden change from a cosy nursery to an exposed spot in full sun or freezing rain is likely to be a shock it will never recover from.

“Hardening off” off means introducing them to their new home gently, over a week or two. Only for a few hours at first, let them get use to their new microclimate, but protect them from extremes. If in a greenhouse I begin by removing the lid. Then I like to pack everything going into the bed in a poly box for ease of transportation (a trick I learnt from my permaculture bible) and to offer a little insulation from said extremes. By the end of the week I just leave the seedling sitting where I will plant it.

Keep them well watered, drying them out before transplant is also a death wish and choose a nice mild morning or evening to do the deed. A drink an hour before planting out will help soil stick to the roots, a little bit of water in the hole they go into will make sure the soil is nice and moist. Morning is good in cooler weather as they have a day of sun to get use to their new spot, and evening in summer so they have the night to drink up water and settle before the hot day.

Do you have any special tricks when transplanting?


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tomato experiment.

is there really a right time and a right place?

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Seasons accelerate by and before we know it, summer’s ripening fruit is just a memory. If we don’t take the time to consciously observe our actions in the garden and learn from them we can end up in a rut. Year after year speeding by with the same failures and our successes remaining a mysterious shrugs of fate. Books and charts can be useful, but if we blindly follow what works for that person in that location we might never find that a banana plant can flourish in that sunny corner of our Mebournian garden.
 


Little experiments can be fun (if not entirely scientific) ways of discovering what works for you.


 
My first garden experiment was in year 8 when I tried growing silverbeet with different levels of fertiliser for science class, are the foolishness of youth. As I remember I wasn’t really keen on eating the silverbeet either. This Tomato Experiment on the other hand involves no pesticides or chemical fertilisers. It’s a step-by-step way to test when to sow and plant out tomatoes in your local area for optimum results.

Won’t you join me in a little investigating? What experiments have you tried in your garden?

THE QUESTION?

If my little daliance in silverbeet trials taught me anything, it’s that the first step is working out what you want to find out.

When should I plant my tomatoes for optimum yields and minimum fuss?

This is my main burning question, staring daggers at a miserable winter’s day I looked to my sow what when chart. I was desperate to start planting the warm weather beauties and it suggested as early as August. But the gardening gurus (Jackie French and Co.) shook their heads sagely from the gardening pages, they warned with furrowed brows: don’t get too hasty child! Don’t sow seeds too early at the first whiff of spring, you’ll end up with inferior plants, more susceptible to disease and pests, weak and sappy with lower yields and lesser fruit. Bah hum bug I replied, I’ll see it when I believe it! So the experiment was born.

I would also like to know:
Does sowing seeds early equal earlier fruit or do later sowing catch up?
When is too late to plant out?
Do tomatoes sown in my Plastic Juice Bottle Greenhouses grow better than those planted in pots/trays?
Can polystyrene wicking beds work for tomatoes or are raised no dig beds better?
 



Thinning the tomato seedlings and mulching around them with coco coir.

Burying stems to encourage roots

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THE TOMATO

I’d like to tell you that I chose the Periforme tomato because it is the most delicious cooked tomato I have ever had and that it was to challenge myself as I find larger tomatoes more difficult to grow than cherry tomatoes. But the truth… I accidentally ordered two packets of these and wanted an excuse to use them. The above are a happy coincidence. This is a late season tomato and ideally I would have preferred to try a mid season variety, but when the internet shopping gods send you a sign, you have to go with it.

What: Tomato Periforme Abruzzo
Why: Good slicing or cooking tomato
Where: Diggers Club Heirloom Seeds
When: Each month 3 seeds per container, 12 total (germination rate 86%). Once the first set of mature leaves appear I can then choose the strongest from each container thinning out the straglers. I then mulch around the remaining seedlings with coconut coir to retain moisture.
How: 4 Plastic Juice Bottle Greenhouses, placed in polystyrene boxes on north facing verandah. The polystyrene box helps insulate the seedlings against weather extremes. The mini juice bottle greenhouse provides enough room for the seedlings to grow until they are ready to plant out without requiring transplanting, which tomatoes really don’t enjoy.



When they reach 20cm they are ready to plant out, but as I started sowing early it will still be too cold so I add another juice bottle layer and fill it with homemade potting mix up the first set of mature leaves, burying the baby leaves. Roots will form along the the buried stem.

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TRUE SPRING RESULTS

Bottle greenhouse Germination:
August Periforme – 14-17 days
September Periforme – 12 days
October Periforme – 11 days

As the days got warmer the Periforme tomatoes germinated much faster.

Comparison Germination:
August Purple Russian – 19 days
September Beam’s Yellow Pear – 13 days
October Valentine – 14 days

These tomatoes were sown in trays then transplanted into newspaper pots/milk cartons 7cm wide and 12cm deep. They were left uncovered on a north facing verandah. The August tomato was much slower to germinate, the others only a day behind.

Although it would have been much more accurate to compare Periforme with Periforme, a girl’s got to have some variety!

End of October
August Periforme already 20cm tall and ready to plant out but the weather is still too cold. Built the soil up around the stem. I wondered if I should have attempted to plant out the August tomatoes now instead of waiting, by next month their stems will be so long it will be difficult to plant them out without damaging them. September Periforme quickly catching up to the height of the Augusts and look like they will be ready to plant out in November as well. I wondered if I should have bothered with the August planting at all. We shall see what the yields reveal.



 
 

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