windward side

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adventures on a desert island


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We thought we had seen all the faces of Oahu, but the storm tossed windward side was something different. It only took a tiny bit of imagination and childhood devouring Jurassic Park, Lost and Castaway to be transported to a wild desert island. Vines reaching for throats, rocky shores and impenetrable jungle, mountain tops clouded from view.
Kualoa ranch stretches around the coast and out of site, one families gold mine for Hollywood blockbusters and small screen sci-fi. Maybe it’s the weather, or perhaps it’s Hollywood’s appetite for pristine tropical island adventures that has saved this part of the world from over development.
It was the perfect rainy day to explore the coast road, jumping out at secluded beaches when there was a break in the rain. We drove until we reached sudden suburbia and turned right around to get the hell out of there. Shrimp vans littered the coast, butter with a side of butter, delicious at first bite, queasy at last.
When we hiked into a tiny settlement below a waterfall, we ran into a white haired resident shack dweller who gave us map to a walk to the falls with recommendations to bring wine if you’re going halfway, and none if you;re going further unless you want to find the way back down by rolling there. He then began hacking away at his overgrown garden to get me a better view of the falls. A Hawaiian youth pulled up in a hotted up car to which our new mate playfully told him to “get that thing the hell outta here”, countered with “this is my land brother”, “you ain’t got two quarters to rub together (I’ve know him since he was this big)”.
Daylight fading we wound our way back toward the North shore and home, pebbled beaches looking as if no one had ever tread their shores.


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The West Coast

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secret treasure


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The leeward side is hotter and its bare slopes run a ragged course skyward with only spiky shrubs for company. It feels wild and lonely, but under its surface it hides little gems if you care to look. Our airbnb host took us on a whirlwind tour of her home, arms pointing out the car window as we followed behind making our own commentary in the car behind with our new upstate New York friends. The weather was wild and misty and rainbows blossomed from the fertile ground. Strange patterns in the grass gave it a sacred feel. My flip-flop (as I shall call them whilst in the States to avoid embarrassment!) fell to pieces on the rocks so Dylan piggy backed me back to the car laughing all the while.
The highlight was the secret turtle beach, reached by squeezing down a narrow path between two houses. Three massive sea turtles sun baked whilst local children ran riot around them. They just dozed, lifting their heads occasionally, almost too much for them as they dropped their draw to snooze longer. All the more magically because it felt so secret, so safe.


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The North Shore

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What is the real Hawaii?


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If the west coast is the “real” Hawaii, the North Shore is what we dreamed Hawaii to be. We sat under a tree sipping on a coconut watching surfers navigate big waves. Behind us some locals began playing Ukelele and singing. Dylan ran and I read, while a woman carrying her baby bounced to the music. The atmosphere lacked that overcrowded tension you get on a touristy beach of a thousand people trying to relax together. It’s a laid back, beach shack, chips by the beach kind of place. Maybe we loved it because it reminded us of home with a Hawaiian soundtrack.

We took a hike into the forest and found it overgrown with Eucalyptus and blackwood, taking the Australian vibe a bit too far. When we got deeper in the forest got wetter and more tropical, orchids flowering everywhere. As we ascended there was the sound of a distant thundering, too constant to be natural, the army wasn’t too far away; it added to the atmosphere of adventure. Emerging from tangled trunks we looked down into a fern covered valley, all was quiet, no birdsong.


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diamond head

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It’s funny the memories that continuously bob to the mind’s surface, and this day had a particularly eclectic collection of imagery for me. A red headed bird I was too slow to photograph, an Amish family climbing the Diamond Head calling out Aloha to everyone they passed (the incongruous juxtaposition of this touristy place and their lifestyle made for merry conjecture back at the Airbnb, are they even allowed to fly?), the camaraderie of claustrophobes entering the tunnel, children swinging in aerial roots and a elderly woman’s delight on seeing our icecreams when we got back down to the beach (apparently it was a brand from back home). Of course the view was spectacular, but that old lady just sticks in my mind, so strange.

As we walked along the beach, killing time until we picked up the hire car (yes we caved, another 2 hour journey by bus at 7am was just too much, soft I know) it began to rain and the beach cleared, a lei floated in the suddenly empty water below. Suddenly a Honolulu beach to ourselves, we had our first swim, perfect.

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