SPRING HAPPINESS PARTY – PART 2

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SPRING HAPPINESS PARTY

PART 2
And on into the night


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The day started oh so very dignified with a beautiful parrot and a pair of brown bears, but as night fell was invaded by a band of mischievous little monsters each naughtier than the last.

The perfect time to bring out the old Bee Pinata! Although the masses voiced regrets at destroying such a wide eyed, smiling guy all sentiments passed when the bashing stick fell into their hands.

There was a moment when all in sundry thought that the bee would never give up its inner treasures, too sturdily was he constructed of cardboard and tape. But they had forgotten we had a corporate lawyer in our midst. With three short, sharp wallops to the face the bee could take no more and spilled forth chocolate ladybirds, lollipops, summer seeds and knitted ornaments all over Carly’s rows of peas and beans.

Fire roaring the last to leave encircled the fire pit with jazz playing in the moonlight.

We gobbled left over treats of spanakopita (both vegan and otherwise), woodfire pizza with lanterns glowing pink savoring the last moment of the celebration.

All in all a most magical and beautiful day spent with new and old friends, this definitely will become an annual event worth every hour of slaving over crochet flowers and pinterest boards.

Perhaps we will see you at our next spring party dear reader.


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FOOD FOREST GARDENS PLANTING GUIDE

Here is where you’ll find a constantly updating list of Warm Temperate Food Forest Plants. I will add links to detailed descriptions of each as I post them including the most resilient of the lot as observed from our own food forest garden and those we have designed. It’s exciting to see some subtropical plants not only surviving but thriving in this climate if you choose the right microclimate (e.g. against a brick wall or mulch pit with grey water)

The realisation dawned with an artichoke flower bud, this gourmet delight that had not only survived but multiplied under my utter neglect. It had been a dizzying summer in our new garden started too late to harness the mild flush of spring.

Our annuals had struggled under baking sun and then a dreary winter had snuffed out hope of even mild self-sufficiency until the following spring, 3pm the dreaded time that the flats next door snuffed out our sun each day. A year later our annual beds bloomed and tomatoes swayed seductively, it looked great and tasted better but it had been a slog against sun, wind and snail.

We finally turned our attention to our little attempt at a food forest, planted and then forgotten for almost a year. But to our surprise and delight it was not a tangle of weeds or barren earth that the annual bed seems to revert to when your trowel wavers for a moment, the opposite: parsley gone mad, banana plants soaring skyward, almond blossoming, Babaco at almost 45 degrees under its weight of fruit (despite being in full shade all winter) and green manure leaving soil moist and soft. Of course with a little more intervention it could have been more productive, but it had reached a state of balance on its own that meant I didn’t have to fret if I went on holidays, or empty a water tank to quench its thirst. Although a far cry from a true forest, our little “low maintenance” perennial garden was working.

From that moment I changed my design strategy: easy, low maintenance, productive and beautiful… a Food Forest Garden.

Now we have an exciting project on the horizon, a Forest Garden for the Flemington Community Garden. Stay tuned for more!

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7 Layers of a Temperate Forest Garden

The 7 layer classification system was developed by Robert Hart from Prehistoric tropical garden methods in the 60s for more temperate climates. It provides a structure similar to that of a real forest that can be adapted from a large scale farm to that of a modest backyard. The architecture of a successful food forest considers not only light requirements of the plants, but water, shelter, root depths and other companion planting principles.

1. Canopy Layer

9m+ high nut, fruit and nitrogen fixing trees (Only larger FFGs)

2. Low-tree Layer

4m high, Dwarf Fruit / Nut Trees
Nitrogen Fixers & smaller trees
Shade tolerant trees
Pruned into open form for light

3. Shrub Layer

Woody perennial plants
Flowering, fruiting, wildlife attracting

4. Herbacious Layer

Perennial vegetables
Self seeding annuals
Bee & poultry forage
Mulch & soil builders, cover crops

5. Groundcover Layer

Less than 30cm high
Low, prostrate, creeping plants
Forms a living mulch – retain, suppress weed growth

6. Rhizosphere (Root) Layer

Edible roots & tubers
Shallow rooted, easy to dig
Longer rooted left to flower for beneficial insects

7. Vertical Layer

Climbers, creepers, vines
Twine around trunks or up fences, trellises, etc.
Habitat and food
Only in established Forest Garden, can strangle young trees

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1. Canopy Layer

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Alder Alnus
American Persimmon Diospyros virginiana
Apple Malus sylvestris
Arazole / Mediterranean Medlar Crataegus azarolus
Black locust Robinia pseudoacacia
Carob Ceratonia siliqua
Cherry Prunus avium
Chestnut Castanea dentata
Chinese Chestnut Castanea mollissima
Cornelian cherries Cornus mas
European Plum (Myrobalan) Prunus domestica
Hawthorn Crataegus spp.
Highbush cranberries Viburnum trilobum
Honey locusts Gleditsia triacanthos
Japanese Walnut (Heartnut) Juglans ailantifolia
Korean Stone Pine Pinus koraiensis
Northern Pecan Carya illinoinensis
Pear Pyrus communis
Siberian Pea Tree Caragana arborescens
Stone pine Pinus pinea
Tagasaste/ tree Lucerne Cytisus proliferus
Walnut Juglans
Hawthorns Crataegus monogyna
Medlar Mespilus germanica
Mulberry Morus spp.
Quince Cydonia oblonga

2. Low-Tree Layer

Almond dwarf Prunus dulcis
Apple Dwarf Malus domestica
Apricot Prunus armeniaca
Australian Round Lime Citrus australis
Banana (Lady Finger) Musa acuminata
Beech Fagus sylvatica
Cherry Dwarf Prunus avium
Citrus Dwarf Citrus spp.
Crab Apple Malus sp.
Date-plum Diospyros lotus
Dogwood Cornus
Elderberry Sambucus nigra
Japanese peppers Zanthoxylum spp.
Fruit Salad Plant Monstera deliciosa
Nectarine Prunus persica v. nectarina
Olive Olea europaea
Pawpaw, Papaya Carica papaya
Peach Dwarf Prunus persica
Pear Dwarf Pyrus communis
Persimmon Dwarf Diospyros spp.
Plum Dwarf Prunus domestica
Service Tree Sorbus domestica
Tamarillo, Tree Tomato Cyphomandra betacea
Tree mugwort Artemisia arborescens
Bamboo ‘Gracilis’ Bambusa textilis ‘Gracilis’
Serviceberry Amelanchier spp.
Silverberry Elaeagnus
Acacia/Wattles Acacia spp.

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3. Shrub Layer

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Acacia/Wattle Acacia spp.
Austral Indigo Indigofera australis
Blackberry Rubus fruticosus
Blueberry Vaccinium spp.
Cape Gooseberry Physalis peruviana
Currants Ribes spp
Curry Plant Helichrysum italicum
Edible Savlias Salvia spp.
Goji berries Lycium barbarum
Gooseberry Ribes Uva-crispa
Guavas Myrtus spp.
Jostaberry Ribes x culverwellii
Large Kangaroo Apple Solanum laciniatum
lavender lavandula angustifolia
Lemon Verbena Aloysia triphylla
Mountain Marigold Tagetes lemmonii
Nodding Saltbush Einadia wutans
Perennial Basil Ocimum gratissimum
Perennial Chilli, Rocoto Chilli Capsicum pubescens
Raspberry Rubus spp.
River Mint Mentha australis
Rose Rosa
Rosemary Rosmarinus officinalis
Scented Geraniums Pelargonium graveolens
Southernwood Artemisia abrotanum
Tomatillo Physalis philadelphica
Wormwood Artemisia absinthium

4. Herbacious Layer

Asparagus Asparagus officinalis
Balm Melissa officinalis
Borage Borago officinalis
Broad bean Vicia faba
Buckwheat Fagopyrum esculentum
Calendula Calendula officinalis
Comfrey, Knitbone Symphytum officinale
Dill Anethum graveolens
Fennel Foeniculum vulgare
French Sorrel Rumex scutatus
Garden Mint Mentha sachalinensis
Garlic Chives Allium tuberosum
Globe Artichoke Cynara scolymus
Hyssop Cynara cardunculus
Lemongrass Cymbopogon spp
Lovage Levisticum officinale
Marigold Tagetes
Mint Mentha spp.
Oregano Origanum vulgare
Parsley Petroselinum spp.
Pepino, Pepino Dulce, Melon Pear Solanum muricatum
Perpetual/Perennial Spinach Beta vulgaris var. cicla
Phacelia Phacelia Tanacetifolia
Rhubarb Rheum rhabarbarum
Sorrel Rumex acetosa
Stevia Stevia rebaudiana
Tansy Tanacetum vulgare
Yarrow Achillea millefolium

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5. Groundcover Layer

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Alpine Strawberries Fragaria x vesca
Sweet Alyssum Lobularia maritima
Basil Thyme Acinos arvensi
Black Cumin Nigella Sativa
Clover Trifolium
Coral Pea Hardenbergia violacea
Corsican Mint Mentha requienii
Cranberry Vaccinium Oxycoccus spp.
Creeping Oregon Grape Mahonia aquifolium
Creeping Snowberry Gaultheria hispidula
Creeping Thyme Thymus serpyllum
Fat hen Chenopodium album
Ground Elder Aegopodium podagraria
Kamchatka Bilberry Vaccinium praestans
Lingonberries Vaccinium vitis-idaea
Lowbush Blueberries Vaccinium angustifolium
Marshmallow Althaea officinalis
Miner’s Lettuce Claytonia perfoliata
Nasturtium Tropaeolum majus
Pigface Carpobrotus modestus
Prostrate Rosemary Rosmarinus officinalis ‘Prostratus’ or ‘Huntington Carpet’
Roman Chamomile Chamaemelum nobile
Running Postman Kennedia spp.
Sweet Violets Viola odorata
Vervain Verbena officinali
Warrigal Greens Tetragonia tetragonoides
Wintergreen Gaultheria procumbens

6. Rhizosphere Layer

Arrowroot Maranta arundinacea
Beetroot Beta vulgaris
Carrot Daucus carota sativus
Cassava (Tapioca) Manihot esculenta
Chicory Cichorium intybus
Chives Allium schoenoprasum
Daikon Raphanus sativus L.
Daylilly Hemerocallis fulva
Echinacea Echinacea angustifolia
Garlic Allium sativum
Ginger Zingiber officinale
Ginseng Panax spp.
Groundnut Apios americana
Horseradish Armoracia rusticana
Jerusalem artichoke Helianthus tuberosum
Liquorice Glycyrrhiza spp.
Native ginger Hornstedtia scottiana
Oca, New Zealand Yam Oxalis tuberosa
Onion Allium cepa
Parsnip Pastinaca sativa
Potato Solanum tuberosum
Salsify Tragopogon spp.
Sweet Potato Ipomoea batatas
Tree/Egyptian Walking Onions Allium cepa var. proliferum
Welsh onion Allium fistulosum
Yacon Smallanthus sonchifolius
Yam Daisy Microseris scapigera

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7. Vertical Layer

Cantaloupe Cucumis melo reticulatus
Chokos Sechium edule
Climbing peas Pisum sativum
Coral Pea Hardenbergia violacea
Cucumbers Cucumis sativus
Grape -Sultana Vitis vinifera
Grapes Vitis spp
Honeydew Melon Cucumis melo inodorus
Honeysuckle (Blue-berried) Lonicera caerulea
Hops Humulus lupulus
Kiwi Berry / Hardy Kiwifruit Actinidia arguta
Kiwi fruit Actinidia spp
Malabar Spinach Basella alba ‘Rubra’
Maypop Passiflora incarnata
Nasturtium (Climbing) Tropaeolum majus
Passionfruit Passiflora edulis
Perennial bean (scarlet runner bean) Phaseolus coccineus
Pumpkin Cucurbita pepo
Soybean Glycine max
Squash Cucurbita
Sweet Potato (‘Bush Porto Rico’/’Centennial’) Ipomoea batatas
Watermelon Citrullus lanatus
Wild grape Vitis vinifera subsp. sylvestris
Zucchini Cucurbita pepo

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late summer preparation 2013 – d.i.y. worm farm

In our sharehouse the scrap container is always overflowing and the compost bins are so stuffed full that it takes three or more inhabitants to turn it. (It is amazing how difficult it is to find the requisite crew, twice a year if we’re lucky!) And why do we have the world’s most finicky chickens? I’ve detailed my trials with their refusal of snails before, but why do they refuse perfectly good veg scraps? Spoiled little beggars!

So it was with desperation and a rising swarm of vinegar flies that we made a worm farm!

But one wasn’t enough, oh no to handle six people we had to expand the enterprise! And with our never ending supply of broccoli boxes we could do it all for free!

The Drainage Container

This is where all the excess water from the worm farm goes to prevent the worms drowning. You can collect “worm juice” by placing a plastic container underneath. Dilute this juice to look like weak tea before applying to your garden to prevent burning your plants.

The jury is out on whether “worm juice” is the miracle elixir people claim it to be, but as it is in effect diluted worm castings it is still beneficial for the garden, just don’t expect your plants to sore skywards with a backing choir of angels.

The Worm Residence

Protected from the elements, sun, rain and cold. The worms within are not your hardy garden variety earth worm, their delicate little red worms that live at the surface of forest floors in places like the Amazon. They need things Well drained, but moist, well-ventilated, and protected from extremes of heat and cold.

Placing the farm in a sheltered corner close to the house is a good idea. Being from the southern hemisphere we chose the south side of our house, under an eave, protected from the western sun and next to our back door.

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ingredients

2 polystyrene broccoli boxes + lid
plastic bottle
electrical tape
6 bricks
plastic container
shadecloth/hessian
shredded paper
coco coir
compost
cow manure
garden soil
compost worms

tools

scissors, knife
pen, ruler, screw driver
bucket, trowel, watering can

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step 1

Cut the end off you plastic soft drink bottle, this is your drainage “tap”. Un do the lid when you want the jucie to flow into your container. I tend to just leave it off and empty the container underneath regularly. Just make sure your worm farm doesn’t dryout by regularly watering it.

step 2

Mark and cut a hole the same size as the bottle mouth in the centre of the bottom of the drainage poly box. Thread the top of the bottle through the hole and tape in place on both sides.The lid side should face outward.

step 3

Elevate the drainage box on bricks high enough to easily place the worm juice collection container underneath.

Place two bricks inside to weight the box down, and to create “worm islands” for any worms that fall through so they don’t drown.

step 4

In the second box punch drainage holes 6cm apart with a screw driver in the bottom. Place a piece of shadecloth or hessian in the bottom to stop the worms falling through before the farm is established, you won’t have to worry about the hessian breaking down because these worms are surface dwellers and as the worm casting build up they will move upwards.

step 5

Punch ventilation holes in the top edge as well at a similar spacing to allow the farm to “breath”.

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step 6

Mix together the ingredients for the worm bedding and place in a 6 cm layer on the cloth. This will be both their bed and all they food they need for the next two weeks while they get settled.

Coco coir, shredded cow manure, aged compost, shredded newspaper/paper and garden soil to add a host of friendly bacteria.

The bedding material should absorb moisture, create pockets of air, contains elements high in carbon so it is slow to breakdown. The worms will be able to snack on this as they settle in, but will prefer the veg scraps when added.

step 7

Water this in and test to see the farm drains properly before adding the worms. If you have bought warms they will have come with their own bedding, but we just took a yogurt container full from an older worm farm.

step 8

Add damp carboard or hessein on top to keep the bedding moist and dark, thes worms are very UV sensitive.

step 9

Add lid and leave for two weeks.

step 10

After 2 weeks add finely chopped food scraps. No acidic citrus or onion,they won’t eat it. The finer, the quicker they will digest it. A worm will eat half its body weight in food a day. They will double their population every 90 days so over time you can add more scraps without worrying about them going mouldy. Ground up eggshells will prevent the farm from getting to acidic and smelling, it will also help the worms digest their food by grinding it up in their stomach. Just feed them small amounts at first, don’t add more until most of the last scraps are gone.

Dilute the worm juice with water to 1:10.

Don’t worry if you go away, the worms will eat the bedding and carboard. Just don’t let it dry out!

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PLANTING OUT TOMATOES

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transplanting solanaceae and other warm weather crops
growing tomatoes in a temperate climate


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After months of waiting, it’s finally here, that tiny window where you can plant out your hot weather crops! Blink and it’s gone, a month before it was too cool and a month later too hot, without enough time for the fruit to mature before autumns chill prevents fruit ripening. In Melbourne this magical month is November, when the minimum temperature doesn’t dip below 10C, but the rain has not yet dried up and those scorching 30C plus days are few and far between. In the Northern Hemisphere this would be May.

Spring’s warm weather companions have been flourishing, beans twisting around stakes and lettuces feathering over the earth to protect your delicate young seedlings from the worst of sun and wind. The rest of your hot weather lovers such as basil can go in now with your tomatoes, capsicums, chillis and eggplants. There was room for a cucumber too in the corner of my garden bed, to twirl up and over an arbour.

A month of work paves the way for two months of rest

 After you slog this month out you will have earned that beach vacation and the garden should be fairly self sufficient. Remember don’t spoil your plants and they won’t throw a tantrum when you’re not there.


My garden bed plan for the warmer months. Tomatoes in the centre of each triangle, supported by string thread around stakes. Lettuces suceeded by basil, marigolds, amaranth
Stage 1: September – November
Stage 2: December – March


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Grow plants densely in hot weather to protect them form sunburn, otherwise put up a shadecloth.

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Tips for planting out tomatoes

In warmer months plant in the evening to allow transplants to recover overnight. The opposite is true in cold weather, where the plants need the warm day to prepare for the cold night, to reduce the likelihood of rot.
Tomatoes are nutrient hungry, but if your soil is too rich they will produce a lot of leaves an no fruit. Dig a hole twice as deep as your seedling’s pot and place poultry manure in the bottom, cover this with soil and plant seedling on top. The plant will grow deeps roots, and reach the manure when it need the extra boost, when covered in fruit.
Avoid overhead watering as this can contribute to sun spot and fungal spores can be splashed onto foliage from other plants.
Plant hot weather crops when the minimum temperature is consistently over 10C
Plant tomato seedlings deeper than they were in their pot so the roots are nice and deep to protect them from drying out. Like cucurbits and some herbs, tomatoes form roots on their stems when in contact with soil.
There is no need to prune. Studies have shown yield is actually reduced when plants are pruned.Wounds on plants increase their risk of disease. If you need to cut them, use secateurs disinfected with mentholated spirits.
Plants can get stressed because they don’t get enough moisture. Water your seedling thoroughly an hour before transplanting and for added benefit use seaweed tea. This helps soil cling to the roots and minimises shock. If it is really dry fill the hole with water and wait for it to drain into the soil before planting.
Mulch thickly around plant to keep soil damp.


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Tomatoes have delicate stems, be careful when handling not to bruise of bend them. The same goes for the roots, be gentle!
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Add mycorrhiza fungi to the roots of the seedling before transplant. Whilst natural ecosystem such as the forest floor have millions of fungi in the soil, garden beds often require the addition of beneficial fungi to act as agents for nutrient exchange, making nutrients otherwise locked up available.
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Water deeply to saturate the soil and make sure it stays moist for the first few days after transplant. Try a chamomile herb tea After that water only once a week, but very deeply. This encourages deep roots, watering too often, and too shallowly causes roots to form near the surface and these are vulnerable to drying out on a hot day. Plants watered too become soft and delicate.
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