BASIL & AMARANTH

 

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PERMACULTURE & GARDENING
BY THE DESERT ECHO

True Spring Tomato (Solanaceae) Companions
Why do tomatoes and basil make the perfect pair?



 
 

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When I think of summer it’s the smell of tomato leaves as you brush them aside to pluck their fruit paired with the heady scent of basil. Once, starring at the perfection of aged purple gum leaves on parched red earth I wondered if colour harmony must be some instinctive response derived from the natural world around us: pale green saltbush against golden sand, pink blossoms waving in a clear spring sky. If this were true, perhaps taste harmony is also based on what natural grows well together in the garden. Just as the colours of a butterfly delight, think of how basil is simply perfection on a tomato pizza or on top of a pasta sauce!
 


Some things are made for one another – tranquility triumphs within a balanced garden.


 

BASIL

My favourite basil for colour is the purple ornamental, but sweet basil is the tastiest. This grows up to 45cm towering over the 15cm compact bush basils. It has been reported that basil helps tomatoes resist disease and actually improves the flavour of tomatoes it grows near, I can’t confirm this, but it certainly does attract bees if you let it flower. Be warned though, once your basil flowers it is the end, pinch those blossoms off as soon as they appear to extend the life and taste of your plants. A pesto of old basil tends to taste like grass and if you’re wondering that is as ghastly as it sounds. It repels aphids, white-fly and fruit-fly; if you leave it on a windowsill it can help yours well as the tomatoes warding off houseflies and mosquitoes.

AMARANTH

Amaranth rises through a sea of green with crimson, purple splashed or yellow foliage, rising up to 60cm. Leafy amaranth is eaten like spinach and grain amaranth dazzles with sculptural plumes. Fast growing, drought tolerant with few disease problems itself it is said to be a good companion for eggplants as it repels insects. Tomatoes become more resistant to harmful insects and potatoes have greater yields. It also loosens the soil for plants that come after the solanace rotation such as beetroot, carrots and radishes.
 
 


Berry punnets reused for seedling propagation

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Simple cut and fold the cartons for a sustainable, free draining, biodegradable seed raising pot.


 
 
 
 
 

PROPAGATION

Both these plants like the tomatoes they assist require warm weather to flourish and shouldn’t be planted out until the maximum daily temperature is reliable over 10C (November in Melbourne). In True Spring, I plant them in discarded berry punnets to keep them warm, with a tray of water underneath to keep them moist.

When they show their first true leaves I gently move them into a milk carton. Many people transplant their seedlings into milk cartons with both the top and bottom cut off, but after too many seedlings falling out the bottom before their time, I decided to fold the bottom in.

Then I place the folded carton this inside a bottle greenhouse with water in the bottom half allows them to thrive despite the cold. When the temperature is right simply unfold the bottom and plant directly in the ground without disturbing the roots.

This year the warm weather seemed to come late so I sowed a second batch of basil and amaranth in High Summer as a backup.



 
 
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EDIBLE GARDENS OPEN DAY

the garden wasn’t finished until it was filled with the laughter of community.

Photo credit Hobsons Bay City Council

Almost a year ago we opened our garden up to the residents of Moonee Valley & Hobsons Bay Council for the My Smart Garden’s Edible Open Day. As the days begin to shorten and the the cold creeps through the gaps it seems like a nice time for reflection on the last year, the first full year since our Permablitz. These are the photos taken last April by the council photographer, it was such a pleasure to have all the lovely people visit especially the little kids running on top of the garden beds, running toy cars over the wall like it’s a race track.


Sharing knowledge and community spirit embodies Permaculture for me.


A striving towards a friendlier, more loving world – for people, for animals, for the earth. Kelly Heffer is the driving force behind the My Smart Garden scheme and she was such a delight. I’d like to thanks her again for such a beautiful day and the lovely MINTI volunteers. I remember people beginning to filter in, a stream becomin a flood and when it was time for our two talks I could not move their were so many people packed in to our little suburban garden. What a beautiful thing, that people are so inspired by permaculture.

After a year in our garden, I’d like to move outwards, strive further. See if I can transform gardens like we did ours to create a better quality of life for their urban inhabitants. We are certainly happier and healthier for our urban oasis.

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THWARTING SNAILS & SLUGS

Get the upper hand in this battle against our cool weather enemies!

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The garden bed has been getting pretty bare as the cool weather plants are taking their last gasps. I want to throw in a whole lot of lettuce seedlings and directly sow some beans to grow up the tomato stakes as I transition from legumes to solanaceae.


Come High Summer when the tomatoes go in, the weather is going to quickly turn things crispy, delicate seedlings will fry!


Although not considered traditional companion plants, they will act as a

nurse crop. They shelter seedlings from excessive sun, reduce weed competition and prevent erosion.

The beans will protect the young tomatoes as they grow up their supports. On the ground established lettuces will shade the roots, so constant mulching won’t be necessary, and more importantly will protect the true tomato companions that will only just be ready for transplant when weather is getting hot – marigolds, basil, amaranth, dandelions, chives.

Unfortunately my plan was brutally cut off at the ground and silvery tracks betrayed the criminal. Soon it will be too hot for the slimey ones to show their heads, but for now they are having a field day on delicious, sappy new spring growth. What’s a girl to do?! I’m yet to find herbs that repel snails (they just live in them!) and coffee grounds just don’t cut it. Sharp calcium rich egg shells and crispy seaweed help, but these snails are seriously out of control! There is not enough beer in the world to drown their enthusiasm!

THE SOLUTION?

Build a fortress! Take the idea of the juice bottle greenhouse and bring it to the garden bed! All we need is a minor modification, keep the bottle top on and drill some tiny ventilation holes to prevent the nasties crawling in. Bury it deep enough to protect against cutworm as well! Only 1 is needed for a lettuce until it is established, but for beans they can be stacked 3-4 high until the stem is thick enough to hold its own. Just put a short stick inside the greenhouse for it to climb and when you remove the bottle simply tie this to the taller stake. The trapped heat will also help the beans and lettuces thrive!



Sharp eggshells deter snails and slugs, but also add calcium to the soil, available for next years crop


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As a rule of thumb I only harvest my lettuce when it has more than 6 leaves so I don’t take too many of its “solar panels”. Following this logic when your seedling can afford to loose one or two leaves to the snails, you can take the bottle off!


Stack the bottles as high as you need, wait for stems to be thick enough that they can’t be felled with a single chomp!


Check out my next post to see how I have snail proofed the nursery!

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USING SEAWEED MULCH

We know why seaweed mulch is a good idea, but what’s the best way to use it?

Now you know the why, here is the how.

Before the blaze of summer can tempt you to take the plunge, how about a springtime stroll along the water’s edge? When you roast in the height of the hot weather so will your garden, now is the time to prepare ahead!

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COLLECTION

It’s easy to be greedy when you know how good seaweed is for the garden, but only take small amounts and not all from the same spot. You don’t want to devastate the delicate beach ecosystems!

I make an outing of it, carrying a small bucket and strolling along, taking only palm sized pieces. I make sure there are some decent footprints behind me before I pick up another piece. These smaller pieces are also much, much easier to handle than lugging a great frond of kelp along the beach, the finer stuff makes better mulch anyway.

It’s better to gather seaweed ‘mid-beach’ because it is drier than that at the ocean’s edge and can be shaken free of sand.

Believe me, having transported wet seaweed home in the past, the great sopping, stinking mess of sodden seaweed is a headache not worth repetition. Conversely, anything too high up the beach has been there too long and may contain land weed seeds from the dunes.

WHEN TO APPLY

As it takes 3.5 months to release nitrogen back into the soil, don’t apply just as you plant out your prize tomato plants. The sudden decrease in nitrogen will stress them out.

Time it so when they start fruiting in mid summer they get that extra boost. This is beneficial not just in the case of tomatoes, but many fruiting plants as too much nitrogen in the soil early on can encourage vigorous leafy growth at the expense of flowers and therefore fruit!

So True Spring is the perfect time to apply seaweed mulch, just as you are sowing your tomato seeds, come the end of High Summer when the first fruit is ripening they’ll be crying out for the extra nutrients.

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HOW TO APPLY IT

As simple as soak, crush and spread

As I mentioned in my post Seaweed Mulch Explained, seaweed itself is not particularly salty, it’s the sand that is very alkaline. So when I get home from the beach with my bounty I just shake the sand out and give it a good soak in a bucket to get any residuals off. Then I lay it in the sun to dry out again so I can crush it with my boots into a finer stuff.

This is optional if the pieces you picked are already quite small, but there is a satisfaction akin to jumping in puddles in the crunch this makes. The seaweed can then be sprinkled around each plant, carefully avoiding their stems and thoroughly watering it all in. In a month the companion plants should have filled in the gaps and any bare soil can be covered with a ‘chop and drop’ of any unruly herbs from the border.

COMPOST

Of course if you don’t apply it directly as mulch you can simply add it to your compost. While land plants require cellulose to thicken their walls to stop them flopping over, seaweed is low in cellulose as it’s supported by water and this means it breaks down really quickly in the compost heap. Sluggish composts often lacks nitrogen so seaweed is an excellent compost activator. It helps break down high carbon materials in the compost such as fallen leaves, newspaper and fruit waste. So if you have any extra seaweed lying around why not add it to the pile.

SEAWEED TEA

Another option is to soak it in a container of water for several weeks, then dilute a small amount in a full watering can and spray on or around struggling plants. When applied the nutrients are available straight away, unlike when mulching so it is excellent to pick up unhappy looking plants. It is very important to add oxygen to the brew by agitating it three times a day or it will become anaerobic (horribly stinky). This entails swirling it with a trowel until it forms a vortex to keep it aerobic. I must admit this is what drove me to using it as a mulch. A barrel of anaerobic seaweed ooze is just about as unpleasant as it sounds when it’s been soaking a while. Don’t even get me started on the visceral reaction I had when some of it spilled onto my pants and then began its merry journey downward into my boots. So I council if making a tea, make it in something small, but… when you can be as lazy as collect, rinse, apply, why bother? Your plants should never look sad if you have properly made their bed!

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