les marches

The tempo has changed, a mad orchestral crescendo replaced by the scratch scratch scratch of a record needle. That’s how every holiday ends for me, there’s a moment when I tire of exploring, I become retrospective, my petals curl inward and I wait for the nurturing touch of home. I’m surrounded by origami flowers, I sketch a thousand ideas in my notebook, they wait for my return to come to life too. I am content just being in this place rather than feeling that visceral itch to document everything. Missing a photo of that french clockwork or that sweeping vista no longer worries me. I have seen so much, my mind is full, it will digest and I’m sure soon after my return I will want more, but for now I have been a glutton for experience and I need to rest.

There is one finally destination before we commence work on the tour. A hair-raising descent that leaves my fingers aching from applying the break then we hit the silent Sunday streets. The only person we see is a man walking his cat, that heightens the uneasiness of a deserted city.

As we draw closer to the trainstation more people emerge but almost everything is closed. The train is packed though and it is a relief to be deposited in montmélian. The mountain rears up before us with a geometric pattern of vineyards so steep it feels like a birds eye view.

We ride, the asphalt sizzles with heat. The horizon waves in a haze of cornfields squeezed between houses. My ears begin to ring and my vision closes in, I need to rest in shade with a drink before deciphering the tangle of french instructions that have come with every airbnb in this country. No one seems to have an address, they have a treasure map.

We enter a French housing development, so different to one in Australia, contemporary techniques hidden in a skin of the old world. Our host has that right amount of English for me to improve my french. Not so much that I am complacent, not so little that we don’t bother to communicate.

They welcome us for a family meal, and their cheeky youngest sun puts on a snorkel for dessert. Earlier his entire face lit up when Dylan skirted him with a water pistol in the pool, it was game on! The other boys have already reached the self conscious age where something as silly as language is a barrier.

The humid air produced a rainbow before even a drop of rain fell. Then it rolled over and we were glad that our tent days were over for this trip and there was a soft bed waiting for us.

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somewhere in the alpes

Welcome to the mountains.

The pizza oven is roaring, stones sucking up heat. The sun bakes and all manner of bees have been visiting the lavender flowers, one particularly alarming specimen with giant dark fighter jet wings whisks by my nose as I finish off the morose tale of Heathcliff and Catherine, after my trip to Scotland the world of moors and gorse are vivid.I blink to a reality of bright sunshine and a backdrop like a painted stage set from the sound of music. How can a view of such rolling fields and a dainty town below (replete with cemetery) exist out of fairytale? The constant grumbling of farm equipment and the swaying powerlines eliminate the need to pinch myself.We’re in the Alpes, and I am resting after a few days of niggling earache that hopefully diminish only to reappear as healthy as ever at dinner time to spoil my chewing. It is a good place to heal, all the more so as the nearest shop is an arduous bike ride to Grenoble so we have cut down on the temptation of patisserie treats. Although I may eat our hosts out of house and home of tiny fake toasts. (By a Grenoble grocery store we saw a man dressed as a pirate asking passers for money, I don’t think his garb helped his cause any)

The church bell rings in the hour and the grape vine above glows as it waves the breeze welcome. Tour de France commentary urgently murmurs from within, our neighbours laugh and every now and again the owner of the constant jingling of bells beats.

I’ve been preparing myself for home, dreaming up schemes and projects so the shock of return isn’t winding. In a handful of days we’ll be working on Phil’s tour group, holiday mode over. How shocking it will be to see a familiar face after all this time!

But for now I’m soaking up the present, I better run the barefoot gauntlet of deliciously soft but bee covered clover lawn to check the fire Dylan entrusted me with so we can have our first proper woodfired pizza since New York! After a barrage of honking horns, merry accordion music has begun floating up from the valley below. Looks like someone’s wedding will be providing a soundtrack to our delicious dinner.

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walled city

I stood alone in ancient laneway, stone buildings compressing me on either side. Through the distant clatter of the city a sweet note began to rise and then became a pretty melody. My eyes darted for the source, the music grew louder and then a violist stepped through a gap and wandered slowly, across my line of vision and disappeared, all the time playing, never glancing my way. Avignon was filled with little surprises like this, a fortified city, a maze of cobblestone streets.

Picnics on the top of the world, a golden Jesus just out of sight. While Dylan ran a guy, practicing soccer ball tricks, kept misjudging and the ball would roll my way. He’d apologise and say longer French sentences to me with every miss. I nodded and smiled, pretending I knew what he was saying. Why do we do that? I guess there was a point where it would have been embarrassing to admit I’d let him chatter away without understanding a word.

We stumbled upon the alternative quarter (as we always do, drawn by some invisible hipster compass), and found ourselves surrounded by shops selling Indian clothes, all sequins and silk, veggie burgers and vintage. We watched a dread headed man going through a dumpster and wondered, “Hipster or Homeless?”. In the main square similar, drop crocheted individuals busked. One on guitar with talent, one rolling a ball on her arms and back without. The carousel span and we bid Provence goodbye.

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towards avignon

The ride continues through Provence from Rousillion to L’Isle sur La Sorgue.

Grey skies gave way to baking heat as the sun burned through the clouds and the road grew steeper. The last stretch of bike path was a gauntlet of giant white shelled snails, there were no casualties and we left them to their lazy wandering.

At the top of one of many hills we found a rather uninspiring looking campground with the rather appealing name of arc en ciel. Do we, currently homeless, grab this opportunity or do we risk the unknown as the day gets old?

We took the uncertain road beyond and I’m glad we did. Ochre coloured buildings and rolling lavender fields lay on the otherside of the hill, the Provence I had been seeking. Of course everyone else was too, and I was able to crop tourists out of my memories much more efficiently than Dylan. I marvelled at the ocean of purple ahead whilst he raged at the disrespect of tourists climbing the fence and running about someone’s livelihood. These marvels aside, our decision lead us finally to the best campground we had ever stayed in. A pool, a campsite by the river and a lovely owner who gave us a bowl of free plums from his tree to eat while inside Frenchmen roared as they watched the world cup semi finals. After such a long day this hodgepodge of tents and campers, packed with Germans and their lapdogs was an Eden.

The next day we made our way towards Avignon, our exit point from Provence and for me the end of our journey. The Alpes would be a moment of reflection whilst Dylan ran and then we would be working on Le Tour and it would all be over. Until then my eyes feasted on a country that was only echoes back home.

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