manoa falls

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last sunbeams fall on our last full day in hawaii


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Chasing the fading light our last hike was my first real head shaking in awe moments. And to put it in perspective there were still loud mainland tourists around every other bend, and the scenery was able to completely absorb us to a different world, where dinosaurs could be roaming around the corner (all be it with roars with a valley girl twang). There are so few things in adult life that give us that wide eyed grinning happiness, so glad I didn’t miss this.


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waahila ridge

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up and down the mountain


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How many places in the world have a hike beginning with a pine forest full of wild chickens? Actually now I come to think about it every hike with done in Oahu has begun with chickens at the base, and this isn’t even the island they call “Chicken Island”! I think I’m going to miss waking up to a rooster crowing. With our accommodation half way up the mountain we’re counting down our last days in Hawaii with some hikes over Waikiki and finally some relaxing beach days, we’ll be fit going up and down everyday! Ice cream definitely well earned!


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kamaile’unu ridge

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rock scrambling


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No better way to bid farewell to the west coast with some good old fashioned rock scrambling. Referred to as the most grueling hike on Oahu, I made it far enough to enjoy a panoramic view of Makaha Valley, and no further, why would you? Of course Dylan ran to the peak daily. Pulling yourself up rocks and searching for pink markers was surprisingly fun and the view made distances that seemed to be a world away insignificant. Did it really take that long to get to Yokohama Bay?
On the way up a sight I will never get use to, a hunter with a gun casually slung over his shoulder. A lovely friendly guy, with a sympathetic grin about the steep slope. He was out since 5am looking for mountain goats. The prikly underbrush was more of a challenge for me, ah but the view, if only we had seen a whale it would have been perfect.
Then a breath of fresh air, a new, slightly more expensive airbnb on the hill above Waikiki, but without needing to rent a car we were coming out on top. Steep roads to the new place were definitely made up for by the stunning view of a sunset city.


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windward side

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adventures on a desert island


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We thought we had seen all the faces of Oahu, but the storm tossed windward side was something different. It only took a tiny bit of imagination and childhood devouring Jurassic Park, Lost and Castaway to be transported to a wild desert island. Vines reaching for throats, rocky shores and impenetrable jungle, mountain tops clouded from view.
Kualoa ranch stretches around the coast and out of site, one families gold mine for Hollywood blockbusters and small screen sci-fi. Maybe it’s the weather, or perhaps it’s Hollywood’s appetite for pristine tropical island adventures that has saved this part of the world from over development.
It was the perfect rainy day to explore the coast road, jumping out at secluded beaches when there was a break in the rain. We drove until we reached sudden suburbia and turned right around to get the hell out of there. Shrimp vans littered the coast, butter with a side of butter, delicious at first bite, queasy at last.
When we hiked into a tiny settlement below a waterfall, we ran into a white haired resident shack dweller who gave us map to a walk to the falls with recommendations to bring wine if you’re going halfway, and none if you;re going further unless you want to find the way back down by rolling there. He then began hacking away at his overgrown garden to get me a better view of the falls. A Hawaiian youth pulled up in a hotted up car to which our new mate playfully told him to “get that thing the hell outta here”, countered with “this is my land brother”, “you ain’t got two quarters to rub together (I’ve know him since he was this big)”.
Daylight fading we wound our way back toward the North shore and home, pebbled beaches looking as if no one had ever tread their shores.


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