portlandia

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portland, oregon

 

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So the theme of of this week is going to be Dylan and Jo go crazy eating food and looking at beautiful things after weeks eating beans and rice and not being able to wash their hair wigs. The second we set foot in downtown we knew we were in trouble, gourmet donut shops, handcrafted leather goods, vintage shops on any other corner… it was all the best of Melbourne with a much stronger handmade and local movement. So for those who prefer my more permaculture or wilderness posts I’ll see you in a weeks time, for those who love the shiny below is a list of our favourite spots from Day 1!It’s funny though, with such a packed day the thing that stands out the most is when we were waiting for a bus outside the Portland Museum on Salmon Street. Across the road there is s bar with a golden salmon bursting through the bricks and next to us at the bus stop were two women with brightly could beanies that I would have photographed had the light not already faded. While we were chatting one came up behind me and asked if she could ask us a question, I said of course turning to fund she had a digital recorder, oh well too late. She asked us “What is a Museum?” and it brought to mind ideas of equality and quality in art, the value of old versus new and the process of trying to trap objects and places in time when everything must eventually age and change. I was reminded of an article I read about America’s National Parks, with climates shifting we must accept some sort of evolution, as a Park Ranger said, one day Joshua Tree National Park might not have any Joshua Trees in it, but that doesn’t mean it won’t be worth protecting. In a more reflective mood we hopped on the bus.

 

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Portland Guide

Blue Star Donuts

On the corner of Washington and 13th, these aren’t your average Homer Simpson style donuts, with fillings like blueberry compote and toppings of chocolate almond ganache they’re something special. We were directed to Voodoo donuts by the folks we met at the earthships, but from people we spoke to on the ground that had just become a sticky tourist trap, who wants to wait in a line in the rain for a donut shaped like a cock and balls? Well lots of people I guess as everytime we passed the line was out the door and down the street! Blue star is way more chill, organic flour and cage-free eggs. We highly recommend if you’re in the mood for a treat.

Cacao

Around the corner from Bluestar is Cacao and perhaps it isn’t wise to as we do walk out one door and in the other as we were so filled with sugar after that we could barely think. Thick delicious creamy hot chocolate that looks and tastes amazing, I recommend the cinnamon flavoured one. They come in a standard and shot size, take my advice order the shot, it is really rich!

Tanner Goods, Imogene & Willie and Poler

Made in Portland clothing and leather goods. Poler featured some hilarious onesies with prints like pizza slices, Imogene and Willie is a pretty little shop and the shopgirl was ridiculously nice and tanner goods filled with beautiful leather wallets and bags, another one of those stores that sends girls like me in rages of envy at the nice things made for men.

 

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Powell’s bookstore

Only three blocks away it’s the largest independent bookstore in the WORLD! We didn’t stay long as physical books are a luxury that our backs can’t carry at the moment, but there were a lot of amazing books in there.

Winn Perry

I didn’t stay long at Winn Perry because their things were too beautiful and stubbornly in men’s sizes. The salesdude assured me that he regularly had women coming into store and wishing the shoes came in lady sizes. At least my bank account won’t be suffering.

Courier Coffee

We’re not done sucking down food & drink yet, coffee here is served in glass jars, true hipster style. On display are hand crocheted coffee cup covers. Dylan reports the coffee to be good! It had begun raining by now a theme that was likely to continue for the week, we were told this is Portland, a city wrapped in an overcast blanket.

Living Room Theaters

Out of the drizzle we dropped into a screening of the film Her, which was a dreamy little film sci-fi meets hipster shirts, we’re glad we didn’t read the synopsis because it would have sounded mad, but somehow they made it believable and beautiful. Watch out for the scene where he is lying on the quilt, the colour styling of his shirt the quilt, eyes and wrinkles on his brow are just stunning, maybe I’m a little intense for noticing that tiny detail, but the director is an artist. The cinema itself is mostly a bar, you can actually make orders and they’ll deliver it to you during the film, classy!

 

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Food Carts

We wandered passed the food carts on Alder Street between 9th and 11th, but didn’t buy, we were so stuffed full from our overconsumptuous day. We’re told by locals that some of the street food is the most delicious in Portland.

Accanto

At the end of the day we splurged at Accanto, the first Italian food we’d eaten in America (pizza aside). It was delicious, the risotto had a nettle pesto, that has spawned my love affair with nettles! Who would have thought something so prickly could be so subtle and delicious? It’s not cheap but after four courses it was pretty reasonable.

Ok so tomorrow perhaps we’ll try a little self-control?

 

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amtrakking across the country

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sacramento to portland


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A day of forced rest, people watching and life story gathering. Sometimes its nice just to sit back and let life flow by. We watched winter turn into spring for our seats, snow melt and be transformed into lush fields with spring lambs bleating and bare branches suddenly weighed down with a flush of flowers. Inside the train we listened with glee to the hilariously melodramatic grumblings of an elderly woman kitted out in her best casino outfit (I’m guessing red was her lucky colour), she described every slight and niggling pain with such undercurrents of delight that it sounded like she was unwrapping christmas gifts. Later we listened to the wild adventured of a helicopter firefighter, the perils of “jumpers” and their “hot shot crews”, the girl on the otherside of the table ate up every word with glowing eyes, a blooming romance? This is why we prefer the train to flying. Have you any fun train experiences?


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Sacramento

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sacramento, california


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Our day of transition continued, stepping off the train in Sacremento, filling in time until the next one at midnight! It was the first day since we left Hawaii that we needed our raincoats, a trend that would continue for our stay in Oregon. If you visit we’d recommend you skip the old town, which is a sticky little tourist trap more like a Disneyland set than a trip through time. All get your photo taken in costume and highway over, honking and the screech of tires.

We had more fun downtown exploring, we had lunch at a delightful meal at 524 Mexican Restaurant where the owner was a nice kind soul. At a running store the cashier had a friend who sold salsa at our Sunday Market back home and from the depths of our memories surfaced an American man who ran up to me and enthusiastically started talking about my Newton running shoes, wow it’s a small world (at least in the running world). We went to a cute vintage store with great prices and a girl working who seemed in a dream the whole time, slow smiles and glazed eyes.

Then Dylan began to wilt with his cold an we went to a trashy movie before a rushed Indian feast and then waiting, waiting for the train. It is a curious experience entering a train at midnight, passing crumpled shapes of sleeping travellers before joining them, curled in awkward fashion on a seat that can’t decide whether it is comfortable or not.


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Trukee

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trukee, california


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We made the bus ride looping through the mountains to Trukee, 20 minutes longer than we expected, luckily with time to spare until our train to Sacramento. It was one of those days with a sticky momentum, where all you have to do is arrive on time, but then so much of it is filled in with waiting. Behind the main street of historic facades and wagon wheels was a surprisingly trendy cafe with walls of Trompe l’oeil. Then if you wander further the boarded up side of town, abandoned buildings that peak curiosity and let the imagination run wild. A different kind of history lesson to the buildings of impeccable stone and folksy ornamentation with tourists in mind.


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