Over Bolinas Trail

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United States of America

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Point Reyes, California


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Point Reyes station
Cute little gourmet town, the only one with everything you’ll find in the area.

Toby’s Store
Organic fruit & veg, we grabbed all our groceries for camping here. Coffee bar next door.

Pine Cone Diner
Try the milkshake! The wait staff are really lovely, the food is organic and they pay their staff a fair wage.

Samuel P Taylor Campground
Camp amongst the redwoods by a river. There is a road across the river, but it isn’t too noisy. Toilets, showers and potable water. $7 per person for a bike/hike campsite.

After a traditional Mexican breakfast, delivered hot by the neighbours with a refreshingly cold hibiscus tea, we set off, but didn’t get far. We discovered the little town of Point Reyes Station and lingered a while. due to tired legs it was going to just be short day, so we were in no rush and this was just the place to be in such a state. Rocking chairs out the front of the organic grocery, community garden nearby and unrelated but note worthy a mechanic garage bursting with stag head trophies (although my city bred sensibilities squirm at hunting I believe it is the most ethical and sustainable way of eating meat if done right, using every part, wild and fresh, but killing the strongest member of a herd for the head on your wall is not my thing at all). We were content like a lizard on a rock, until that midday uneasiness set in, the road was calling.

After another oh so delightful hill climb oh much blustering and heaving, we came to a choice. Down the smooth hill road and out of sight, or hefting our bikes over a stile and up a rutted dirt single track through fields and past cows, guess which one we took? But of course we chose that one, there were cows and secretly for me an excuse to walk the bike up the hill, it was muddy you know. The cows were walking single file across the path, a long gangly but unbroken line, then one paused to bellow and three stragglers crested the hill and cantered, almost skipping to join the herd, it was all rather lovely. I had some fun testing my mountain biking skills on some down hill segments but when the mud began turning into tram tracks I hopped off and just took in the view. Rolling green hills, sea beyond, my idea of paradise. Then over a rise and before us were a glad of gum trees bathed in sunlight, oh what a sight for tired Australian eyes, that familiar smell. Then down down into darkness, hands getting tired from grasping the brakes and then light. After car streaming roads and rutted tracks the bike path through the woods looked about as perfect as we could imagine. We sailed along, no hills, just flat and smooth and car free. I liked to imagine this was how it would be in France, flowers and trees and sunlight.

We entered the red woods, towering soldiers of timber, leaves making a soft carpeted floor. We set up tent next to a family making camping magic with fairy lights and red and white checked table cloths. We opened our bear locker to find it full of wood, of such joy there would be a fire tonight!

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cyclotourists

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Golden Gate National Recreation Area


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Our first day cyclotourists began navigating out of the traffic and the undulating streets of San Francisco. Heart in my mouth I began to breath again when I reached the comparative flatness of the Golden Gate Bridge, only to be confronted by human traffic. We took our time crossing, the view of the bay was a marvel of glittering light and white sails, half way across the tourists thinned and we flew under red cables of twisted metal then down down into the little seaside town of Sausalito.

It was a charming spot, we lingered to finish our second round of pastries from breakfast. Having left the lionshare of our luggage with the bike rental man I was mortified to be turned away from the breakfast table for having shorts too short, once I swallowed my shame it turned out in our favour being handed ‘to-go’ boxes that we stuffed to bursting. I’m sure those more refined among you are apalled, but anyone who has been a backpacker knows the buffet croissant in the backpack routine.

We met a lovely German woman outside a bike shop who wished us well, then we were off over bumpy timber boardwalks and wetlands into Golden Gate Recreation Area which we always mistakenly refer to Golden Gate Park and get bemused looks of locals imagining us hitching up tent in the middle of the city. There was no sound of traffic as we bopped over the rutted dirt path. Falcons wheeled over head doing a dance with the moon. After all was set up for the night I found the perfect log to sot and enjoy the sun, unfortunately it was a high security log and what I had dismissed as lush bushes surrounding it were secretly super nettles! I yelped and Dylan shook his head in amusement at my plight. Stings were forgotten when we took a ride to the beach for sunset. We were just a handful of souls lucky enough to be in this magical place. Couples perched on the rocky cliff base and strode hand in hand along the shore, ships bellowed their greetings and birds kissed with their pale bellies. Just as light dimmed to just a hum at the horizon, a helicopter swung towards us and came metres above our heads and a nebulous voice barked something crackly at people climbing off the path above us. Chastened and shocked by their hard core telling off they scrambled back to the designated trail. Excitement overflowing for the day we returned in darkness to our tent and the sound of owls and ships horns calling us to sleep.

The Bike Hut
The owner might seem a little grumpy at first, but it’s becauuse he is so passionate about bikes and getting people touring, bu spends his days hiring out tandems for rude tourists. He threw in panniers, locks and helmets for no extra charge and also has some camping gear for rent too. He was so happy to rent us bikes for actual touring that he even kept our excess luggage for the week at his house!

Golden Gate National Recreation Area
Free walk in camping, must reserve a spot beforehand. No fires or drinking water, but yes bear boxes and toilets.

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Exploring a new city

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San Francisco, California


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Today we tackled the San Fran hills and they won. Wandering from Nob Hill we went in search of the Golden Gate Bridge. San Francisco definitely has the strongest european echo I have felt in America, the buildings so closely packed, the antithesis of sprawling suburbs, the detailing, the balconies and flowers. Every terrace holds a mystery behind its facade, perhaps a secret courtyard, an attic room, a spiraling outdoor staircase to a rooftop paradise.

Without seeking it out we fell upon the Lombard streets curiosity, the road twirling through planters. Then finally we started the descent to the other side of the bay. The clunk of ball on bat, drew us to what I thought was a baseball game, but was later informed by Dylan was softball, oh well whilst not the “American Game” it was an American game. Customary Sunday sport in the park, people joined together in chants and cheers for their team as each man stepped up to bat.

As lunch approached Dylan surprised me with a glorious park for picnic. A temple like stone building, from the pages of a Greek epic surrounded by a lake. We feasted on pastries we had gleaned from the buffet breakfast (just so Dylan’s dad could be reassured he got his money’s worth of course) and watched people slowly stream by.

The onto the beach and our first view of the famed Golden Gate. By now a fog had begun to amass from the north and everything became as if viewed through gauze.Time was slipping away, we had to get back across town to Pier 40 to collect some hire bikes for an adventure. We began to run, along the coast through swathes of hot pink pigsface and into a forest of pine. 40 minutes in we had admitted defeat, 6 was looming and we were an hour way, then a bus wooshed past. We emptied our pockets, $1 short of a fare, and there was a little convenience store with an atm before us. Cash out, a coconut water and ice cream and we on our way. As sun began setting on San Francisco Bay Dylan began the task of teaching me how to ride like a cyclotourist not a commuter with a basket full of flowers and a baguette in the back. It should be an interesting week on the road.

Lombard Street


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Marine Layer
Basics made in San Francisco in pretty white and pastels just like the terrace houses and nautical navy.

Golden Gate Bridge

Darbar
Indian restaurant, cheap and cheerful. The owner in his woolen jumper made us feel welcome and the price and proximity from our hotel made it a very relaxing night out.

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san francisco

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San Francisco, California


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We flew from a cloudy Portland morning into the sun. It’s something else to descend through puffy white clouds, watching their shadows stain the earth. Our first glimpse of the city was out of the cave of the metro, we stood blinking into the brilliant sun. As we ascended the stone stairs Powell street materalised before us: masses of cascading flowers, the rush of summer clad tourists who cheered as a trolley car rumbled down the hill. That hill! The art deco building soared upwards, their size magnified by the steep slope, I had never felt so dwarfed in my life. I guess these would appear thimbles when I arrived in New York.

We inched up the climb with our pack and feeling like dirty urchins entered the lobby of our hotel, two nights a Christmas gift from Dylan’s father. After perusing the dress code of the hotel restaurant, we decided it better to wander the city in search of a meal. It was that time in the evening where the city glows, illuminating a random person or rubbish bin and elevating them to the divine. A walk at sea level allowed us to truly absorb the sheer height of city rising up from the wharf. A large bird stood in the middle of a empty lot “looking for his car” Dylan said, then off he sprinted to get some kms, leaving me to my favourite sport of trying to capture humans in their candid moments unseen. Once we reunited, we rounded the bend to Fisherman’s wharf and in the disguise of tourist you can take a photo of anyone and everyone unquestioned. It was like a non stop carnival, elevated from the gaudiness of cardboard thin facade to magic by the sheer amount of activity. Carousel horses bobbed past, a girl bounced into the air and magical started gathering a crowd. We broke through the mass for a view of the infamous Alcatraz, then as we turned toward the platforms where sea lions laze in the sun a man walked past with two iguanas on his head, it was no street act, he was just on a stroll. We could here exclamations from uncensored children as he strode into the crowd, necks flicking back in double takes until he was out of sight.

Enough excitement had we sought out dinner before returning exhausted to the luxury of a warm bath, a white robe and a hotel bed with five spare pillows.


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