PASCOE VALE PERMABLITZ

September 27, 2013 2 Comments

I never fail to be impressed by how many beautiful people show up to lend a hand, for a stranger, for free!

The first hot day of Spring saw us spades in hand under the baking sun. Sunscreen formed a second skin and my main facilitating job took the form of hydration police, although yelling “I don’t want any fainters!” seemed to elicit giggles rather than a rush to icy drinks.

With the imminent arrival of a crew of 50, facilitators became team leaders with 10 bodies a piece. The metres of mulch pit path ahead of us would allow no time for a casual 50+ intro circle no matter how interesting their “favourite tree” or “how many blitzes they attended”. Facilitators Nikki, Carly and Jess got down to the the important business of stretches and back friendly spade technique; I marked out the paths.

Head facilitator roughly translates to cheer squad captain and I planned to have a hoarse voice by the end of the day, we wanted spirits to remain high, as why would you sign up for hours of labouring if there wasn’t some fun involved? The kids sure had a blast with Fuchsia making amazing birdscares including a pretty fancy scarecrow. And I like to believe lots of new friends were made, and people bonded over being “team grey water mulch pit” and “stinky decomposing cacti area” (some people are born heroes!).

After a lovely lunch, a more relaxing afternoon was spent planting out the mandala intensive garden beds and listening to Nikki do a workshop on fruit tree planting, which to her surprise (and no one else’s) had rave reviews. It’s always great when people share their knowledge, what is second nature to some is not always the case for others and people really love to take something new home with them after a long day. Team Dylan chook strawyard looked pretty pleased with themselves and their were lots of lingers way after the official day’s end, always a great sign!

scalping-turf-pascoe-vale-permablitz

Photo credit: Kellie Gollings @ https://www.facebook.com/KellieGollingsPhotography & TheDesertEcho.

Garden

FOOD FOREST GARDENS PLANTING GUIDE

September 17, 2013 33 Comments

Here is where you’ll find a constantly updating list of Warm Temperate Food Forest Plants. I will add links to detailed descriptions of each as I post them including the most resilient of the lot as observed from our own food forest garden and those we have designed. It’s exciting to see some subtropical plants not only surviving but thriving in this climate if you choose the right microclimate (e.g. against a brick wall or mulch pit with grey water)

The realisation dawned with an artichoke flower bud, this gourmet delight that had not only survived but multiplied under my utter neglect. It had been a dizzying summer in our new garden started too late to harness the mild flush of spring.

Our annuals had struggled under baking sun and then a dreary winter had snuffed out hope of even mild self-sufficiency until the following spring, 3pm the dreaded time that the flats next door snuffed out our sun each day. A year later our annual beds bloomed and tomatoes swayed seductively, it looked great and tasted better but it had been a slog against sun, wind and snail.

We finally turned our attention to our little attempt at a food forest, planted and then forgotten for almost a year. But to our surprise and delight it was not a tangle of weeds or barren earth that the annual bed seems to revert to when your trowel wavers for a moment, the opposite: parsley gone mad, banana plants soaring skyward, almond blossoming, Babaco at almost 45 degrees under its weight of fruit (despite being in full shade all winter) and green manure leaving soil moist and soft. Of course with a little more intervention it could have been more productive, but it had reached a state of balance on its own that meant I didn’t have to fret if I went on holidays, or empty a water tank to quench its thirst. Although a far cry from a true forest, our little “low maintenance” perennial garden was working.

From that moment I changed my design strategy: easy, low maintenance, productive and beautiful… a Food Forest Garden.

Now we have an exciting project on the horizon, a Forest Garden for the Flemington Community Garden. Stay tuned for more!

nasturtium-spring-bulb-growing-under-tree

7 Layers of a Temperate Forest Garden

The 7 layer classification system was developed by Robert Hart from Prehistoric tropical garden methods in the 60s for more temperate climates. It provides a structure similar to that of a real forest that can be adapted from a large scale farm to that of a modest backyard. The architecture of a successful food forest considers not only light requirements of the plants, but water, shelter, root depths and other companion planting principles.

1. Canopy Layer

9m+ high nut, fruit and nitrogen fixing trees (Only larger FFGs)

2. Low-tree Layer

4m high, Dwarf Fruit / Nut Trees
Nitrogen Fixers & smaller trees
Shade tolerant trees
Pruned into open form for light

3. Shrub Layer

Woody perennial plants
Flowering, fruiting, wildlife attracting

4. Herbacious Layer

Perennial vegetables
Self seeding annuals
Bee & poultry forage
Mulch & soil builders, cover crops

5. Groundcover Layer

Less than 30cm high
Low, prostrate, creeping plants
Forms a living mulch – retain, suppress weed growth

6. Rhizosphere (Root) Layer

Edible roots & tubers
Shallow rooted, easy to dig
Longer rooted left to flower for beneficial insects

7. Vertical Layer

Climbers, creepers, vines
Twine around trunks or up fences, trellises, etc.
Habitat and food
Only in established Forest Garden, can strangle young trees

1. Canopy Layer

avocado-canopy-layer-temperate-forest-garden

Alder	Alnus
American Persimmon	Diospyros virginiana
Apple	Malus sylvestris
Arazole / Mediterranean Medlar	Crataegus azarolus
Black locust	Robinia pseudoacacia
Carob	Ceratonia siliqua
Cherry	Prunus avium
Chestnut	Castanea dentata
Chinese Chestnut	Castanea mollissima
Cornelian cherries	Cornus mas
European Plum (Myrobalan)	Prunus domestica
Hawthorn	Crataegus spp.
Highbush cranberries	Viburnum trilobum
Honey locusts	Gleditsia triacanthos
Japanese Walnut (Heartnut)	Juglans ailantifolia
Korean Stone Pine	Pinus koraiensis
Northern Pecan	Carya illinoinensis
Pear	Pyrus communis
Siberian Pea Tree	Caragana arborescens
Stone pine	Pinus pinea
Tagasaste/ tree Lucerne	Cytisus proliferus
Walnut	Juglans
Hawthorns	Crataegus monogyna
Medlar	Mespilus germanica
Mulberry	Morus spp.
Quince	Cydonia oblonga

2. Low-Tree Layer

Almond dwarf	Prunus dulcis
Apple Dwarf	Malus domestica
Apricot	Prunus armeniaca
Australian Round Lime	Citrus australis
Banana (Lady Finger)	Musa acuminata
Beech	Fagus sylvatica
Cherry Dwarf	Prunus avium
Citrus Dwarf	Citrus spp.
Crab Apple	Malus sp.
Date-plum	Diospyros lotus
Dogwood	Cornus
Elderberry	Sambucus nigra
Japanese peppers	Zanthoxylum spp.
Fruit Salad Plant	Monstera deliciosa
Nectarine	Prunus persica v. nectarina
Olive	Olea europaea
Pawpaw, Papaya	Carica papaya
Peach Dwarf	Prunus persica
Pear Dwarf	Pyrus communis
Persimmon Dwarf	Diospyros spp.
Plum Dwarf	Prunus domestica
Service Tree	Sorbus domestica
Tamarillo, Tree Tomato	Cyphomandra betacea
Tree mugwort	Artemisia arborescens
Bamboo ‘Gracilis’	Bambusa textilis ‘Gracilis’
Serviceberry	Amelanchier spp.
Silverberry	Elaeagnus
Acacia/Wattles	Acacia spp.

3. Shrub Layer

Acacia/Wattle	Acacia spp.
Austral Indigo	Indigofera australis
Blackberry	Rubus fruticosus
Blueberry	Vaccinium spp.
Cape Gooseberry	Physalis peruviana
Currants	Ribes spp
Curry Plant	Helichrysum italicum
Edible Savlias	Salvia spp.
Goji berries	Lycium barbarum
Gooseberry	Ribes Uva-crispa
Guavas	Myrtus spp.
Jostaberry	Ribes x culverwellii
Large Kangaroo Apple	Solanum laciniatum
lavender	lavandula angustifolia
Lemon Verbena	Aloysia triphylla
Mountain Marigold	Tagetes lemmonii
Nodding Saltbush	Einadia wutans
Perennial Basil	Ocimum gratissimum
Perennial Chilli, Rocoto Chilli	Capsicum pubescens
Raspberry	Rubus spp.
River Mint	Mentha australis
Rose	Rosa
Rosemary	Rosmarinus officinalis
Scented Geraniums	Pelargonium graveolens
Southernwood	Artemisia abrotanum
Tomatillo	Physalis philadelphica
Wormwood	Artemisia absinthium

4. Herbacious Layer

Asparagus	Asparagus officinalis
Balm	Melissa officinalis
Borage	Borago officinalis
Broad bean	Vicia faba
Buckwheat	Fagopyrum esculentum
Calendula	Calendula officinalis
Comfrey, Knitbone	Symphytum officinale
Dill	Anethum graveolens
Fennel	Foeniculum vulgare
French Sorrel	Rumex scutatus
Garden Mint	Mentha sachalinensis
Garlic Chives	Allium tuberosum
Globe Artichoke	Cynara scolymus
Hyssop	Cynara cardunculus
Lemongrass	Cymbopogon spp
Lovage	Levisticum officinale
Marigold	Tagetes
Mint	Mentha spp.
Oregano	Origanum vulgare
Parsley	Petroselinum spp.
Pepino, Pepino Dulce, Melon Pear	Solanum muricatum
Perpetual/Perennial Spinach	Beta vulgaris var. cicla
Phacelia	Phacelia Tanacetifolia
Rhubarb	Rheum rhabarbarum
Sorrel	Rumex acetosa
Stevia	Stevia rebaudiana
Tansy	Tanacetum vulgare
Yarrow	Achillea millefolium

5. Groundcover Layer

groundcover-layer-clover-mustard-cover-crop

Alpine Strawberries	Fragaria x vesca
Sweet Alyssum	Lobularia maritima
Basil Thyme	Acinos arvensi
Black Cumin	Nigella Sativa
Clover	Trifolium
Coral Pea	Hardenbergia violacea
Corsican Mint	Mentha requienii
Cranberry	Vaccinium Oxycoccus spp.
Creeping Oregon Grape	Mahonia aquifolium
Creeping Snowberry	Gaultheria hispidula
Creeping Thyme	Thymus serpyllum
Fat hen	Chenopodium album
Ground Elder	Aegopodium podagraria
Kamchatka Bilberry	Vaccinium praestans
Lingonberries	Vaccinium vitis-idaea
Lowbush Blueberries	Vaccinium angustifolium
Marshmallow	Althaea officinalis
Miner’s Lettuce	Claytonia perfoliata
Nasturtium	Tropaeolum majus
Pigface	Carpobrotus modestus
Prostrate Rosemary	Rosmarinus officinalis ‘Prostratus’ or ‘Huntington Carpet’
Roman Chamomile	Chamaemelum nobile
Running Postman	Kennedia spp.
Sweet Violets	Viola odorata
Vervain	Verbena officinali
Warrigal Greens	Tetragonia tetragonoides
Wintergreen	Gaultheria procumbens

6. Rhizosphere Layer

Arrowroot	Maranta arundinacea
Beetroot	Beta vulgaris
Carrot	Daucus carota sativus
Cassava (Tapioca)	Manihot esculenta
Chicory	Cichorium intybus
Chives	Allium schoenoprasum
Daikon	Raphanus sativus L.
Daylilly	Hemerocallis fulva
Echinacea	Echinacea angustifolia
Garlic	Allium sativum
Ginger	Zingiber officinale
Ginseng	Panax spp.
Groundnut	Apios americana
Horseradish	Armoracia rusticana
Jerusalem artichoke	Helianthus tuberosum
Liquorice	Glycyrrhiza spp.
Native ginger	Hornstedtia scottiana
Oca, New Zealand Yam	Oxalis tuberosa
Onion	Allium cepa
Parsnip	Pastinaca sativa
Potato	Solanum tuberosum
Salsify	Tragopogon spp.
Sweet Potato	Ipomoea batatas
Tree/Egyptian Walking Onions	Allium cepa var. proliferum
Welsh onion	Allium fistulosum
Yacon	Smallanthus sonchifolius
Yam Daisy	Microseris scapigera

7. Vertical Layer

Cantaloupe	Cucumis melo reticulatus
Chokos	Sechium edule
Climbing peas	Pisum sativum
Coral Pea	Hardenbergia violacea
Cucumbers	Cucumis sativus
Grape -Sultana	Vitis vinifera
Grapes	Vitis spp
Honeydew Melon	Cucumis melo inodorus
Honeysuckle (Blue-berried)	Lonicera caerulea
Hops	Humulus lupulus
Kiwi Berry / Hardy Kiwifruit	Actinidia arguta
Kiwi fruit	Actinidia spp
Malabar Spinach	Basella alba ‘Rubra’
Maypop	Passiflora incarnata
Nasturtium (Climbing)	Tropaeolum majus
Passionfruit	Passiflora edulis
Perennial bean (scarlet runner bean)	Phaseolus coccineus
Pumpkin	Cucurbita pepo
Soybean	Glycine max
Squash	Cucurbita
Sweet Potato (‘Bush Porto Rico’/’Centennial’)	Ipomoea batatas
Watermelon	Citrullus lanatus
Wild grape	Vitis vinifera subsp. sylvestris
Zucchini	Cucurbita pepo

Garden

TOMATO CUTTINGS

August 30, 2013 No Comments

easy guide to propagate tomatoes when it is too late to sow

A tomato plant wasn’t born to stand to attention on a tomato stake, pruned within an inch of it’s life to a singledelicate stem. It’s a rambler, and like pumpkins and herbs like thyme all it needs is to touch its stem to the earth for it to sprout roots. This delightful trick can be used to your advantage when it gets too late for any tomatoes you sow to mature in time to bear any significant fruit.

A tomato cutting will bear fruit in a matter of weeks after the cutting sprouts roots.

So I plant all my tomato seeds in True Spring (Southern Hemisphere: September-October, Northern: March-April), plant them out in the beginning of High Summer (Southern: November, Northern: May). Then once these grow multiple stems about 20-30cm long I take cuttings to make extra plants from High Summer -Deep Summer (Southern: December-Mid March).

And here’s the best part! Tomato cuttings don’t actually need to be cut off the parent plant until they have grown roots! “What?!?” you say, here’s how:

ingredients

plastic juice/soft drink bottle

knife

secateurs & methylated spirits for disinfecting

hessian/cloth

scissors

electrical tape

chock

seed raising mix & trowel

chamomile tea

cutting-plastic-soft-drink-bottle-reuse-recycle

step 1

Cut base and top off the bottle. As bottles are wider at the bottom than the top, the top should be cut off at the point where it is slightly smaller than the base.

step 2

Cut hole in base for tomato stem to pass through.

step 3

Chose a 20-30cm long stem and after disinfecting your secateurs with metho cut off all but 2-3 top leaf stems. Also remove any flowers so the tomato puts all its energy into producing roots.

how-to-make-tomato-cutting-plastic-bottle

step 4

Cut a piece of hessian to fit in the bottle base. Snip a cross in the centre for the tomato stem to be threaded through. You do not need to cut the stem from the parent tomato plant! Take the rest of the bottle and place the top end in the base.

step 5

Tape the base to the bottle with electrical tape.

step 6

Fill bottle with seed raising mixture being careful not tpo bruise or snap the tomato stem.

chamomile-tea-tomato-cutting-healthy-resilient

step 7

Chock up on a piece of wood. A brick and timber board work well. Label with name and date.

step 7

Water with diluted chamomile tea.

protect-tomato-seedlings-sun-roots-develop

the next few weeks

step 9

Keep your tomato “cutting” moist for the next few weeks, it’s very important that it doesn’t dry out.

Roots should start forming in the first week, but there is no need to cut in until you are ready to plant it in its new home. It should start developing new leaves as well.

step 10

By this stage you should clearly see a mass of roots through the plastic bottle. Cut the tomato cutting from its parent below the bottle, remove the bottle base cut the bottle along the side to slip it out before planting. A cut bottle can be reused by electrical taping the side back together.

why are bottle tomato cutting best?

Tomatoes are very prone to transplant stress. With an established root system before being snipped from itsparent your cuttings are more likely to survive.

It’s a great way to “clone” any particularly resilient, tasty tomatoes you have in your garden and extend its harvest beyond the life of its parent.

They transport well in their bottle pots.

As your cutting is already around 15cm tall out of the bottle your plant will grow tomatoes much sooner than a cutting taken the traditional way (only around 6cm) or a seedling grown from seed.

A great way of re-using plastic bottles that would otherwise go in the recycling bin. A clear bottle means you can see the roots growing.

step 8

Wrap the bottles in hessian to protect the growing roots from the sun and retain moisture.

Garden

Inaugural Flemington Food Swap

August 26, 2013 2 Comments

food-swap-produce-limes-seedlings-vegetables

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finding community in the inner city

A little huddle of four we strode towards Coronet Park, seedlings swinging and lunchboxes bursting with baked treats. We had thrust out a net of fliers with hopes of finding like minded people: wishing for change, weary of waste… a community. Our resilient leader Carly strode with confidence, my heart had a slight flutter, the fear of disappointment. Flemington isn’t Northcote, would anyone show up?

The park seemed very big as we set out our assortment of winter veg and nibbled on Carly’s delicious Bengali bhaja. In the distance, a boy and his dad cocked their heads mid kick and wandered over. Their bags opened to reveal hundreds of juicy limes that their 10 year old tree had produced. If these were the kinds of wonders people brought to a food swap I was definitely in for the long haul! A quite little trio of three generations approached shyly. The grandmother, with not a word of English, but a huge contagious smile pointed to the swap items, to us to her, to her daughter all the while merrily chattering in Mandarin, to which we spoke not a word. She scuttled off and returned with a lunchbox of sweet and yummy red bean sweet cake and lovingly craddling the enormous Pak Choy she chose in return.

And then suddenly people were coming from all directions

All ages, all genders, all nationalities; carrying books, picnic food, veggies, herbs and clothes to swap. we found ourselves looking at each other and grinning in shock, it was overwhelming and heartwarming. Everyone seemed as thrilled about it as us, promising to return to the next swap with more friends, proffering invites to pot lucks, and clothing exchanges, parties and community working bees. At the end of the day everyone felt like they left richer than when they arrived, it was more than I imagined it could be and look forward to many more Swaps in the future. It will grow, people will share more than what can be held in the hand, knowledge, talents and strength!